Wines Of The Week - German Summer Whites
by Alan Kingsbury - Friday August 19, 2016 11:08 am
Let's get this party started with a classy sparkling wine which is easily a match for a good Champagne.
With lots of attack on the palate, Reichsrat Von Buhl Riesling Sekt Brut 2014 (£18.99 Direct Wines) has all the style of a top sparkler.
Flavours of green apple, grape and stone fruits are followed by superbly yeasty bread crust notes and then a twist of lime to finish.
With quality like this, we were not surprised to discover that it’s made by Mathieu Kauffmann the former cellarmaster of Bollinger.
A bit of a sleeper on the Co-Op shelves, Devil's Rock Riesling 2015 (£5.99 RRP The Co-Op) is lush and punchy in the modern style.
It's a bona fide bargain Riesling from Germany's balmy and productive Pfalz region.
Just a little off-dry with a brisk, zesty texture, Devil's Rock is a real pleaser with succulent peach and pineapple fruit flavours lifted with a touch of lime.
Equally lively yet employing another grape variety is Kliene Kapelle Pinot Grigio 2015 (£5.49 RRP The Co-Op).
Also from the Pfalz, this Pinot Grigio's regional character shows through with lots of typically juicy peach and citrus lifted with a bright and refreshing acidity.
It's unashamedly 'moreish' and a fun change from the more familiar Italian or New World Pinot Grigios.
For many, the personification of a German white wine would be a Mosel Riesling.
Perhaps uncertainty about sweetness has been an issue with UK wine drinkers in relation to these German classics but things are beginning to change.
Mosel Peter & Ulrich Griebeler Riesling Dry 2015 (£11.99 Majestic) is an example of the dry style increasingly favoured by the international market.
This characteristically mineral and elegant Mosel is enriched by flavours of ripe orchard fruits and pleasing lemon notes while the welcome dryness on the palate makes it a good choice for accompanying fish dishes and salads.