The Elmore Jam -Spread The Word

by Nick Harman - Thursday November 2, 2017 9:11 am

The Elmore Jam is back after a supper club hiatus (since February), so we went along to see what it’s all about.

A space like a grounded New York loft, Spianata is a bakery and sandwich shop by day and now tonight the candlelit venue for the latest Elmore Jam. Set amongst the glass steel of More London by Tower Bridge it seems a million miles from London. It’s a quirky venue for sure, but in a cool and considered way.

Large tables have been laid amongst the bread ovens (delicious breads by the way, if you work in the area you’ll know how great the flat bread sandwiches are here), and a small jazz quartet are making jazzy noises. Not the tweet, plonk, honk of modern jazz, but the kind of jazz that accompanies conversation rather than making you say ’what the bloody hell is that racket?’

Some come as groups, some come as couples, it doesn’t really matter as soon everyone is chatting away, one of the great things about this kind of dining is the social side.

It’s not easy for a chef to work in these conditions, a bakery was never designed to much more than bake things after all, but ’The Nomadic Chef’, Alessandro Miroballo, is going to serve a 5 course tasting menu featuring the bread, of course.

Miroballo, known as Miro, has cooked in some of the world’s best restaurants in Italy, France, Germany, Denmark, Japan and the United States, including a number of three starred Michelin restaurants. So he has plenty of experience.

The  Elmore Jam Live Music Supper Club, is the idea of Nick Atkins and he’s on hand beaming beatifically as we knock back a welcoming cocktail, soon though we’re heads down on the plates.

All the dishes were delicious, there was none of that sharing nonsense - everyone got their own portion - and it ran as efficiently as any good restaurant, despite the logistic challenges.

I loved the Wafer of Parmigiano Wafer Smoked Tomato Chutney Wild Fennel that kicked things off, as well as Spianata flatbread rammed full of Culatello and fiordilatte.  The Tea Smoked Salmon Horseradish Red Cabbage, Tonka Beans was packed full of flavour, good to look at and effective.

Standout of all five dishes, no easy job, was Egg Carbonara Slow Poached Egg Smoked Pancetta Pecorino, the egg buried under a Medusa-like tangle of crunchy vermicelli

You smashed your way into the egg and everything then oozed happily together into the most wonderfully delicious mélange of flavours and textures. It was basically a modern re-imagining of Spaghetti Carbonara that wouldn’t have been out of place served in Osteria Francescana

Noise levels were high by now, but in a good way, a ‘having a good time’ way and the close proximity of all the tables may have been a nuisance to the wait staff but gave a great feeling of camaraderie.

Outside, passers- by pressed their faces to the window to look at the lovely food being prepped in front of them and the jolly atmosphere inside.  Some tried to come in, thinking it was a normal restaurant, and were politely sent away disappointed. Don’t you be disappointed. Look out for the next one, details to be released soon at grubclub.com/the-elmore-jam

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