Which was why I was happy to accept an invitation to one of Chapter One’s regular gourmet nights. It was an extra special occasion as McLeish was cooking alongside Locksbottom resident Gary Rhodes in aid of Mandarin Oriental Hotel’s executive chef David Nichols Spinal Injury Foundation .
The evening began with a champagne and canapé reception in the bar. I say canapés, they were in fact more like fancy tapas. From somewhere, I conjured up enough self restraint not to gorge on the waves of smoked eel on pumpernickel with horseradish and beetroot; butternut and sage risotto; venison Wellington; fish and chips; chicken satay and butternut and feta croquant with a butternut veloute, knowing that there was six course meal on the way. I did however succumb to the stupidly delicious sweet and sour chicken and the smoked eel veloute with eel brandade
We made our way through to the sleek, modern dining room (fitted out by Brighton-based company Design LSM who are very busy little bees and responsible for dozens of restaurants including the stunning Galvin La Chapelle and street chic Roti Chai among many others), where Nichols addressed the crowd to explain about his charity.
‘That being the case you’ve got two choices, you can either do something about it or just accept it. The medical evidence then was so stacked against people getting better that I decided we were going to start a charity. I knew that, with the help of my chef friends throughout the world the one thing I could do is raise money.’
Since 2008, Nichols has raised an impressive £2.7million and announced at the event a donation of £1million to further the work of Professor Geoffrey Raisman of the Institute of Nurology who is researching the ‘Repair of Injuries to the Spinal Cord and Spinal Roots by Transplantation of Olfactory Ensheathing Cells’. Nichols says Raisman is ‘ three or four years away from a cure for paralysis’, providing an incredible and uplifting thought to ponder over dinner.
We’re also given something else to ponder, albeit of far less import. The dishes will be served without attribution and we have to guess which are McLeish’s and which are Rhodes. To a long term Gazza fan like myself (I saw him on his theatre tour back in the early 90’s when he cooked on stage at the Brighton Dome and did a Stars in Their Eyes-style Gary Glitter impersonation – something he’s thankfully unlikely to repeat anytime soon, for all sort of reasons) this is frankly a piece of piss.
Given that there are over one hundred guests eating the same menu and being served pretty much all at once, its nothing short of astounding to deliver a piece of sea bass that’s steamed just so. This is banqueting food, but not as we know it. It’s no doubt cleverly designed so that it can be served in large numbers, but there’s no feeling at any point in the evening that we’re being short changed by the kitchen with dumbed down food – any of the dishes would fit happily on an a la carte menu.
McLeish (who was responsible for all the canapes) comes up trumps with his amuse of game consommé served in a tea cup with a very fine brunoise of root vegetables at the bottom served with a warm brioche stuffed with chicken liver parfait on the side, and a main course of rare breed pork with crushed and caramelised apples, confit garlic, smoked purée and a thyme calvados jus. They are delicious but don’t quite hit the heights of Rhodes’s savoury courses.
Eric Narioo of Le Caves de Pyrene, wine suppliers to many of London’s top restaurants, is on hand to explain his selection of natural wines to the gathering – after they’ve sorted out the squealing feedback that’s emanating from the PA system that is. For a while I think I’ve been transported back in time to an early Jesus and Mary Chain gig.
Although I love the environment, I’m not a huge fan of natural wines which, in my limited experience can be coarse and lacking in refinement, flavour and aroma. The evening’s selection turns out to be a mixed bunch with only Jurancon Vitage Vielh, Clos Lapeyre 2007, South West France with the sea bass and a Chianti Classico ‘Le Trame’ Podere Le Boncie 2006, Italy really doing the business
I leave McLeish, Rhodes and Nichols in the bar, signing copies of Nichols book Off Duty for the eager punters, sales of which will be donated to the charity. Its been a memorable night for a good cause and I return to my room at the nearby Bromley Court Hotel (dead handy if your not a local or don’t want to rush for the last train) replete. Gourmet nights can be a cynical way to fill up a restaurant on a quiet night, but Chapter One obviously take them very seriously. They are not a cheap way to spend an early weeknight but you certainly get your money’s worth.
Gourmet evenings will be held at Chapter One on the first Monday and Tuesday of March, July and November 2012. See the restaurant’s website for details.
Chapter One Restaurant,
Farnborough Common,
Locksbottom,
Kent
BR6 8NF
www.chaptersrestaurants.com
Canapés
Sweet & sour chicken
Smoked eel on pumpernickel with horseradish & beetroot
Smoked eel veloute with eel brandade
Butternut & sage risotto
Venison Wellington
Fish & chips
Chicken satay
Butternut & feta croquant with a butternut veloute
The menu and matched wines
Game Consommé & A Warm Brioche With A Liver Parfait
Arbois Pupillin Blanc Chardonnay, Emmanuel Houillon 2010, Jura
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Homemade Truffle Crumpet, Seared Foie Gras, Poached Hen’s Egg, Hollandaise Sauce
Vouvray Sec La Dilettante Domaine Catherine & Pierre Breton 2010, Loire
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Steamed Seabass, Creamed Potatoes, Spring Onions, Leeks,
Candied Ginger, Soy And Sesame Vinaigrette
Jurancon Vitage Vielh, Clos Lapeyre 2007, South West France
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Rare Breed Pork With Crushed & Caramelised Apples, Confit Garlic, Smoked Purée & A Thyme Calvados Jus
Chianti Classico ‘Le Trame’ Podere Le Boncie 2006, Italy
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Orange Blossom & Yuzu Jelly
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Toasted Marshmallow Meringue, Yorkshire Rhubarb, Rhubarb Sorbet And Warm Vanilla Custard
Sydre Sur Schiste, 2010, Eric Bordelet, France
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Coffee & Petit Fours