As Dan Doherty’s new and eagerly awaited Duck & Waffle cook book hits the shelves, Nik Speller ascends Heron Tower to have a word with Londons 24 hour chef
I doubt threats of violence would be Dan Doherty‘s style. He seems far too nice a guy and has a book to sell, so it wouldn’t make much sense to punch me. Besides, he’d literally just stepped off the plane from India, having been part of a team who cycled over 400kms for charity, so is probably too tired. So how did he find his Indian adventure? He sips his coffee thoughtfully before replying. “India was immensely rewarding, revealing and humbling,†he says. “ We got to see the good work being done, but also the stark reasons why the charity existsâ€Â. A class act all round then and even the offer of a coffee for the interview – it’s win, win.
Before taking a look at Dan’s book, we talk about the restaurant itself: its sales of 7,000 duck legs a month, its floor-a-second visitors lift, the guy who once ate four signature duck and waffle dishes in a row – the usual statistics for a restaurant. What are the challenges of running a restaurant like this, I wonder. “Putting a team together who can work different shifts around the clock wasn’t easy at first,†Dan explains “ We’ve had some practice though and now it’s fairly seamless. I’ve picked the best guys to work at the right time of day. There’s no point putting an early bird on a late shift.â€Â
It must be one hell of an administrative task and not easy to walk away from at’the end of the day’ (whenever that may be), knowing that the kitchen will continue running while you’re tucked up in bed. Dan thinks about it for a moment. “Trust is very important,†is his eventual answer. “ I have to know I can trust my staff to maintain standards when I’m not there. To begin with, it was hard to let go, but now I have people in place who I can trust, which lets me do other things, like this interview, the book and, of course, sleep,†he laughs.
It’s perfect segway into the book, Duck & Waffle: Recipes and stories, as this is a book that takes inspiration not just from the cooking, but from the staggering views of the restaurant, both inside and out. The pages are filled with incredible shots of London in the day, night, dusk, morning and many more minutes in between. From the pale grey light of 15:40, to the orange glare of 19:05, these pictures alone make it worth a read. The recipes don’t disappoint either. “It sounds cheesy, but it’s the dream of a chef to write a cookbook. A way of documenting the recipes so others can enjoy them, and sharing share the inspiration and stories behind each dish. In a way, the book is an attempt to translate our menu into home cooking.â€Â
Dan suggests I try a dish with mussels, which is not going to happen, so opts for hara bhara lamb with smoky aubergine and mint yoghurt. It seems relatively straight forward, creating a paste from herbs and spices, marinating the meat overnight before baking the aubergines and frying the lamb quickly before serving. Like the guy who owned Hitler’s car, I’m a busy man and haven’t had time to try it out; but I will, and I’m sure only my failings in the kitchen will let it down.
Heron Tower, 110 Bishopsgate, EC2N 4AY
Duck & Waffle: Recipes and stories, is a 224 page book, available in Kindle and hardback editions from Amazon, priced at £12.99 and £17.00 respectively (price correct at time of writing). For more information on this title, visit the Octopus Publishing website.
Dan Doherty can be seen before the end of the year appearing on BBC’s Saturday Kitchen and Channel 4’s Sunday Brunch.