“The naturally occurring water we pump up for the beer could be easily sold as quality bottled water, but that would be such a terrible waste!†Mark Woodhouse, current representative of the family that has run Hall & Woodhouse for seven generations, chuckles amiably. Next to him his Head Brewer Toby Heasman smiles too, he’s probably heard that one before.
Mark is every inch of what you would expect from a man with his pedigree. His silver hair is brushed from a side parting, while his shiny brown shoes support an upright, distinguished man turned out in country squire shirt, jacket and tie.
The brew is what made the brewery famous, created back in late 1700s as Mark explains, at a time when many people could not read or write, so having a distinctive logo and name made it easier for them to get what they wanted in the pubs.
The main buildings we’re drinking in are old but the actual brewery itself is brand new and Mark and Toby will lead a tour later showing off the shiny new equipment that produces a massive amount of beer a year.
It’s a jolly atmosphere with people committed to their job and using their expertise. You could almost say it’s feudal, with the brewery as the castle, Mark as Lord of the Manor and so many of the locals working under his wing.
Plaques and rolls of honour are all over the centre celebrating the many, many generations of people who have been a part of the brewery life throughout their own lives, while the walls also pay testament to the social work and support the brewery has always been committed to.
We have taste of Tanglefoot, one of their perennial best-sellers.’Legend is my ancestor John Woodhouse, then the head brewer, tried the first batch, liked it, had some more, stood up and fell over his dog’s lead. Hence the name.’
Well it is 5%, so that may also have been the cause, and it tastes great with melon and pear tones.We move on to Fursty Ferret, which like all the beers here has a story which in this case is that of ferrets that would sneak into pubs to lap up the beer.
Walking around the brewery later, a place redolent with marvellous scents of malt and barley and of all the different hops used to create the various styles and flavour profiles of the beers, the craft element can be hard to see in giant fermentation vessels and pipe work to rival the Pompidou centre.
Some go on to be made large scale, many become a small run that’s used in celebrations and special occasions, such as the annual Hall & Woodhouse Dorset Beer Festival that raises money for charity. Toby pats the small equipment affectionately before leading us back outside.
They make around 12 bottled beers and about 15 cask beers, each a product of the sort of focus on ingredients and craft and time that one would expect to see usually only in a vineyard. The days when beer was so horrible we all drank lager, which was equally horrible but was so cold at least you couldn’t taste it, have long gone.
Some were strong, some not so much, the flavours and style of each pronounced and enjoyable. This was as good as any wine-paired meal,’much better,’ says Mark firmly, calling for a special bottle to be brought to table as a grand finale.
235 bottles of this Collector’s Edition 2012 were released, each bottle hand-numbered and signed by Chairman Mark, and sold in a wooden presentation box. It is absolutely delicious, sparkling gently, smoothly rounded and with Calvados and sherry tones.’It’s maturing very nicely,’ says Mark as he pensively finishes his glass.’Let’s have another bottle!’.
When you’re head of the badger sett, there’s always a good reason to enjoy another great beer.