The boutique hotel Abbots Court has been a labour of love for family owners of the award-winning The Tickled Pig favoured by Mary Berry and Tom Parker Bowles. Annabelle Hood is the first journalist invited to check in.
“This rare breed are very good all-rounders†Jez beams. They look very round to me – but I daren’t think about it, as Charlotte’s Web is my favourite children’s book. Besides, it feels churlish to reveal my affection for Wilbur the pig now, being the first journalist invited to review the hotel.
The hotel, which opened in January, follows their successful “brisket and local ales†pub The Tickled Pig in Wimborne Dorset (featured in the Michelin Guide within four months of opening. And no, there’s no connection with’The Pig’ hotel chain).
Young Tickled Pig chefs Mike Parry (“amazing palate for someone who has only been in the industry for eight years,†says Jez) and the “mind-blowingly good” Alex Naik, now job-share the role of Head Chef at Abbots Court. Luckily both are ego-free, so the partnership works.
Within minutes, I’ve sourced a young black Labrador up for adoption from Birch Hill Dog Rescue, since the only thing Abbots Court lacks is a friendly Fido to greet and lead guests round the farmland (I’m politely rebuffed, as the children want a puppy).
Over time, the logs will be used for wood fires. Part of an eco ethos at Abbots Court with elements being recycled, restored, or morphed into something else. They even make their own compost.
“We’ll be growing indigenous heirloom vegetables,†adds Jez, reeling off tomato varieties, brassicas, salads and herbs “that you just cannot buy in the supermarketâ€Â.
Jez himself is no stranger to professional cooking, having been only one burnt pan from joining the Semi-Finalists of MasterChef seven years ago (“Sadly I’d practised on gas, they didn’t tell us it we’d be cooking on induction hobs!â€Â).
As if their to-do list wasn’t long enough, the couple plan to keep sheep, ducks and chickens, and to install a smokery for dry-curing pork, with a view to producing their own charcuterie brand.
After a bracing walk around the estate, my companion and I warm up with an aromatic’house style’ G&T by the log fire, nibbling dehydrated rice crisps flavoured with crushed fennel, sumac and paprika; sage and parsnip root vegetable crisps; and dehydrated then deep-fried pork scratchings, prawn cracker-like in texture.
We move to the moodlit dining room. “Abbots Court is small but perfectly formed,†explains Niki, showing us to our table. “With a maximum of 14 house-only guests dining at any one time, it means we can lavish more time and attention on guestsâ€Â.
The Jerusalem Artichoke comes topped with chicory, the plate smeared with white- and braised red cabbage sauces – “Pure Alchemy isn’t it?†whispers my companion.
Curried Cornish mussels and spiced Puy lentils topped with a mini onion bhaji was a touch over seasoned for me. But the salt-baked heritage carrots cooked five ways and gnocchi (“cloud-like puffs of pleasure†coos the companion) are a colourful ode to rainbow carrots, lifted with a dash of tarragon emulsion.
“Fish pie†is a deconstructed trio of Dover sole; sashimi-like torch-scorched Trout on a bed of fennel twirls; and a solitary Scallop on kale and potato cubes.
My companion and I chuckle as we stand up to do subtle ham-string curls in a bid to get the circulation going after 3-hours of chomping (a Tasting Menu record for me). However, what follows is one of the most astonishing puddings of my career to date: Cardamon and bayleaf pannacotta with beetroot-poached rhubarb. I still catch myself fantasising about its silk-smooth texture and lingering pang of tang and spice…
Apparently a chocolate & chestnut ganache, pear, stem ginger and candied walnuts arrived shortly afterwards, but my tastebuds only had buds for the dreamboat pannacotta.
That night, with the sound of owls hooting distantly in the trees, I dreamed that six silhouetted pigs flew past the vast Cardamon-and-rhubarb infused pannacotta moon that I was merrily gorging on… Sweet dreams are made of this.
For more information go towww.abbots-court.co.uk
Tel. 01929 448638
Annabelle Hood’s website is www.LuxuryJournalist.com