High on a hill, Le Saint James Hotel in Bordeaux offers unique style, fantastic views, superb food and a cookery school as well. Nick Harman went to try it all.
With a cheerful whirr all four meters or so of blind would creep upward to slowly reveal a 180 degree view of Bordeaux spread out to the west below. The early light shining onto the taller buildings the cars with their headlights on, blue lights of emergency services silently and purposefully charging down the autoroutes. Magical.
Above it all
Get closer to the panoramic window and look down and the hotel’s mini vineyard stretches away from the terrasse and the long elegant pool. The light all the while keeps changing, it’s like having like the world’s biggest TV and the sharpness is of course excellent.
This is a suite and there are Chambres de Luxe and what are called ‘basic’ rooms ‘which are anything but of course ; eighteen rooms in all and all with that amazing view
An architect’s dream
Fabulous food
The kitchen is a significant part of the hotel because the restaurant is itself a very significant part of the hotel. St James has seen stellar chefs do time behind its pass and now Nicolas Magie is in charge.
You can read more about our experience in the Saint James Restaurant and the fabulous food and service in our separate review next week.
Cook yourself
We chose the latter and at 09:30, torn away from breakfast in the glass walled restaurant, we assembled under the eye of Célia Girard the main kitchen’s Sous-Chef. The teaching kitchen is in the front courtyard so there’s no view to distract you, but then you only have eyes for Celia as she spells out the tasks you will undertake. The state of the art white work surfaces and the latest in ovens and hobs by Miele are the stuff of home chefs dreams, clinical perfection to prepare beautiful food efficiently.
The lesson is in French but she speaks good English for those who need it and we try to learn while also eyeing the gorgeous garden outside, sun stroked even though it’s late October.
It’s not strenuous, it’s fun and we pick up lots of tips on the way. And we learn a little of what it’s like to stand for hours and end, it’s hard, very hard.
Lunch is served
We watch elegant Bordeaux people turn up for lunch on the terrace, surely the best place in Bordeaux to have lunch. Across the road, the hotel’s second restaurant the Cafe de l’Esperance, serves simple grills in a classic interior. We look in, we’re not hungry but the sight is enough to make us.
LE SAINT JAMES BOULIAC
Hôtel Relais & Châteaux
3 place Camille Hostein
33270 BOULIAC
F. +33 (0)5 56 20 92 58
reservations@saintjames-bouliac.com
reception@saintjames-bouliac.com
Find out more about the cookery school
For all stays between Sunday and Thursday this November 2014, Le Saint-James is offering the following:
– For a one night stay: a bottle of champagne in the room on arrival
– For a two night stay: a visit (transfers not included) with wine tasting to a Chateau in Saint-Émilion
– For a three night stay: free transfers to and from the airport
The three special mid-week offers can be used together, so a person staying for three nights would receive all of the above.