4 Bathurst Street, London, W2 2SD www.angelusrestaurant.co.uk
Angelus doesn’t brag about its sustainability credentials – but it should. In a foodie world where big-name chefs take over already-established dining rooms and spend hundreds of thousands of pounds on a refurb, the sustainability question needs to be questioned from a different angle. If kitchen equipment is out of date or inefficient, upgrading might be essential; much of it will find a new home and provide its own environmentally-responsible story. Front of house the story is more muddled. A new head chef or patron is likely to want to alter the character of his or her new gaff; changes might not be functionally necessary but reputationally essential.
The bar at Angelus – all polished wood and glistening glass – dates back to the early 19th century. It, like the building, is grade II listed. Ripping out and replacing was never an option. Part of the pleasure of turning this former pub, The Archery Tavern, into a restaurant was in its preservation. Sustainability here goes beyond the menu. Add huge art nouveau mirrors, glamorous chandeliers, oxblood red leather button-backed banquettes and some stylish neighbours and a traditional London boozer morphs effortlessly into authentic French brasserie.
The champagne, Angelium, a Blanc de Noirs made from Pinot Noir grape from the 2008 harvest, was crisp, light coloured and slightly lemony – perfect as we drift into autumn and perfectly matched with the day’s pichounettes, both savoury and sweet. First the savoury.
Imagine a platter with a selection of tasting portions from the à la carte menu. That’s pichounettes. It’s exactly what London needed in the 1970s when wine bars were the newest new thing – and we’ve been seeking them ever since. Not wodges of stodge, not pistachios and olives, not dips with pitta bread; an elegant plateful to share, enough to satisfy hunger, soak up the fizz, sustain the chat.
Aubergine with broad beans was light and refreshing, pretty and colourful from the vivid green of the beans and baby dice of red, yellow and green tomato; it reminded me of an impressionist painting. Artichoke and Beaufort cheese terrine zinged with a dab of sharp, mustardy pickle. Pretty, lightly-breaded rings of baby squid gave crunch to a spicy crayfish cocktail. Adding basil and balsamic vinegar to Bayonne ham with Charentais melon lifted a classic combination well above the ordinary. A slight hit of curry added pep to the quenelle of crab on a sourdough crouton – another typically French treat. Pichounettes – as a concept, as a beautiful plate of food, and as a hunger-satisfier – works.
Next, the sweet pichounettes. Millefeuille was feathery-light, heady with vanilla from its soft, poached pear. A mousse of English Mara des Bois strawberries was unusually light, the result of making it with yoghurt, not cream, and adding enderflower jelly. Its accompanying strawberry sorbet was pungent and prettily pink. The dark chocolate and cherry tart was the least successful – but I’m unusual in my preference not to mix chocolate with fruit. The highlight of this exceptional platter was the luxuriously creamy gjnger crème brulée.
We were there for the pichounettes but were generously treated to main courses too. The griddled Gigha halibut (a sustainable Scottish Atlantic fish) with carrot and star anise purée, baby courgettes, spring onions, new potatoes, sunblush tomatoes and a lemon verbena velouté was the prettiest plate of food I’ve ever seen. ‘Beautiful,” said Janina. And delicious. Salt marsh lamb came glossily pink, tender and moist, perfectly matched with the earthy flavour of aubergine purée, soft coco beans (a pulse) and grilled red pepper.
London is a conglomeration of neighbourhoods, each with its own style and preferences. Angelus is undoubtedly a neighbourhood restaurant, reflecting the style of its neighbours. Popping out for a glass of champers and a light bite (or a full three courser) is de rigeur for locals who live amid the grand architecture of Hyde Park.
Angelus might not be in your residential neighbourhood but it ought to be on your ‘we really must go there” list. At £13 a plate the pichounettes were excellent value for money, even if you aren’t sharing. £23 brings you pichounettes and a glass of Angelium champagne. Even my controlling bank manager would think those prices were sustainable.