105 – 106 Upper Street, London N1 1QN www.galleylondon.co.uk
Nick finds Upper Street is now less about New Labour and more about fishy business. So perhaps no change at all?
An odd street, so much wealth and poverty side by side united only by a shared desire to vote Labour at election time. And so many places to eat, from deep fried rat in the Chicken Shops to food a great deal fancier just a few doors down. For whatever their individual circumstances, the locals here must all love to eat out.
We sat at the tables – rather too close together I suspect when the place gets full. Restaurants for grownups need a bit of space between couples. The banquettes looked a cosy option though.
As to be expected from a name like Galley, the kitchen is helmed by salty seadogs all stumping about on wooden legs. Well of course it isn’t, but the emphasis very firmly on fish from Chef Marcel Grzyb.
Brixham John Dory spinach, Romanesco, cauliflower purée, saffron and mussel sauce was missing, the waitress told me apologetically, the John Dory, would halibut do instead? Of course.
I was disappointed when it arrived naked, no crispy golden skin. One of the reasons I eat fish out and not at home is that I love a crispy skin and it’s hard to achieve with a domestic frying pan. That aside the fish was just right on the cooking, firm with a hint of translucence and flaking in shiny chunks. The spinach was hiding coyly under the fish and the brassicas contrasting well with the Romanesco slightly overcooked. The mussel sauce was rich with saffron and the mussels themselves saucily plump.
This seemed to be perfect, C liking it a lot and cheerfully pulling out the meat from the lobster portion placed on top. A rich dish, redolent of the Italian seaside.
Desserts were perhaps not all that stand out while still being fine, I admit I don’t really like desserts much anyway not having a sweet tooth, so my salted caramel tart, green tea ice cream, chilli and hazelnut praline could have done with more salt and more chili.
I enjoyed Galley; relaxed dining with generally firm and well-focussed cooking from a kitchen visibly (literally) relaxed and at ease with itself. I can’t imagine Corbyn ever doing power-sharing deals anywhere but in a wholemeal cafe, but couples looking to strike up a working relationship or maintain one will like it here a lot.