3 Neal’s Yard, Seven Dials, Covent Garden, London, WC2H 9DP www.eatnative.co.uk
Although it may appear small, with only a couple of tables and an open kitchen when you first look in, you’re quickly taken down a spiral staircase to an intimate dining room. The décor below makes you feel like you have stepped out of London – with foliage covering the walls, faux fur throws, seasonal flowers on the tables and lots of wood.
The South Downs’ venison for our main was seared and caramelised on the outside, perfectly pink in the middle, and wonderfully tender. This was served with wild mushrooms, sprout tops and, a black pudding that will convert even the most sceptical of diners (it converted me)
Our wild mallard was cooked wonderfully. The breast was cooked as it should be – pink in the middle – and the leg was slow-cooked, which made it fall off the bone.
The sides were fairly average compared to what had come before. The honey roast parsnips had been left in the oven for slightly too long, giving them a little bit of a bitter, burnt edge. The braised chantenay carrots were nice and sweet, although I could hardly taste the salsa verde that was apparently drizzled over them.
However, this can be easily remedied by trying the cheese board instead. Strong and pungent Colston Bassett Stilton, that was a tad intense for me but went down a treat with my dining partner, with a creamy and tangy slide of Kirkham’s Lancashire Cheese. Rather than the traditional crackers, these were served with slices of rich and sticky prune loaf. A thoroughly enjoyable cheese board.
Overall, Native is a great place to escape from the winter, get cosy, and enjoy some fantastic British produce and seasonal game. I’ll definitely be going back.