We begun with the variety not long ago ‘seen as a weed’ in Australia – Chardonnay. There it seems the golden grape became famous then notorious in a remarkably short time. Indeed, the first example was the 1971 Vat 47 by Tyrell’s. In Gago’s hands, it’s now contributing clean, crystalline wines. His careful handling was evident in both the cordite and citrus scented wild yeast, barrel fermented ’08 Reserve Bin 08A from Adelaide Hills, and supple, tangerine and sherbet stained ’07 Yattarna. The latter is most definitely a ‘cooler clime wine’ blended from fruit from no fewer than three states (half Tasmania; the balance Adelaide Hills and Henty). Ironically, Gago admitted to being Yattarna’s biggest critic before ’05. He said: ‘We were trying to play with the whole orchestra, leading to a big wine with custard apple and bacon fat. But now we’re playing fewer instruments and it’s more delineated.’
Put Another Cork in It
Although the practice is not without fierce critics, I was intrigued to hear of Penfolds’ re-corking ‘roadshows’ which offer a complimentary service to owners of Grange’s backstories. A 15ml sample is assessed and those that are in good condition are topped with the current release, re-corked then re-capsuled. Conversely, those rare counterfeit bottles, and ones out of condition are re-corked, minus the capsule, and marked with an indicting white dot. Not only does this serve to reassure potential buyers, meaning a more buoyant market, but in some cases, ‘liberate’ owners who could ‘afford to buy the wine, but not drink it.’ A white dot denotes that it is time to drink it or bin it. Since ’91, 90,000 bottles have been given treated.
Now 1/6th of the price, it is intriguing to note that for 30 years, only $1 separated Penfolds St. Henri Shiraz and Grange. Again largely Shiraz, this it the ‘alter ego’ of Grange. Matured in large vats that are over half a century old, a swirl of the glass yielded gutsy aromas of peppered blueberry compote and Quink ink in clay, with an energetic, soft, suprisingly delicate palate. Like those waiting to drink it, this will ‘fatten-out in bottle given time’ according to Gago.
Gago was due to travel to Bordeaux’s ultra formal, cholestosauri laden Fête le vin the day after we met. It being a black tie affair, this would mean more calls to lost luggage later in the afternoon…
Gago, who laments having to buy bottles of the wine he makes, has written three books to be able to raise enough dollars to afford it. His most recent collaboration is ‘Australian Wine: Styles and Tastes’.
Penfolds is owned and distributed by Foster’s EMEA.