The lot of a food reviewer (restaurant critic has such negative connotations) isn’t always an easy one. I’m not asking you, dear readers, to get your hankies out. I realise I am fortunate, but bear with me.

Here’s the gig: a new restaurant opens, a PR company invites journalists to visit, and we file in to be fed and watered. So far so lucky.

I arrived at Cooper’s Cut full of excitement. As locations go, it’s a big deal. Directly, in the shadows of the Tower of London, housed in the former Port of London Authority (PLA) building, the air was thick with history, and memories of my younger years as a logistics journalist.

And now for the question you’re all wondering – who is Cooper? Sir Edwin Cooper, British architect behind the PLA.

Now the Four Season’s Tower Bridge Hotel, the building is breathtakingly grand. It left me rummaging in my handbag to ensure the invite hadn’t read: black tie. Marble pillars and chandeliers filled the reception area, and the landscape became grander with each footstep.

The dining room, with its dark wooden interior, reminds me of an upscale classic American steakhouse. I love the ambience created by the darkness – this is romantic dining territory. However, I immediately realise this created one major problem during my evening visit.

Taking decent pictures was impossible. Even with a light ring, I failed to produce few of any note. I breathed a sigh of relief, sure that the PR would have plenty of stock images. Sadly, this turned out not to be the case. No more than those you see here were provided.

So here we are now relying on the written word to bring the diner into the room , perhaps creating such envy that they feel compelled to darken the door of Cooper’s Cut.

The restaurant calls itself a contemporary steak house, hence the inclusion of ‘cut’. I guess the oversized modern furniture fits the bill. However, the surrounding leather banquette booths, shout classic.

The evening began with Head of Bars, Michele Lombardi, explaining the importance of a good Martini to the drinks menu. Three Martini Mid-Day pairing lunch, is a nod to the long boozy business lunches of old. 

The 2026 offering goes easier on alcohol content “for today’s pace and sensibilities, offering structure and satisfaction without excess.” Quarter proof spirits are used, with some interesting flavour inclusions, a caper brine and blue cheese olive combination was particularly good.

Cooper’s Cut Power Lunch is £45 for two courses and £52 for three courses. The addition of a Martini will set you back £15, two – £28 and three, £39. My pick from the menu, sardines, followed by 180g minute steak. 

My 7pm visit meant an altogether different menu.

The 72-cover restaurant’s kitchen is lead by ex-The Ledbury chef, Luke Armstrong, who has brought modern French cooking, and a mastery of culinary crafts, including dry-ageing. He has a deep respect for seasonality, as is evidenced by the menu.

The menu prides itself on meat sourced from world-class origin producers – grass-fed British and Japanese Wagyu. I have mixed feelings towards Wagyu beef. I absolutely love it, but there’s a part of me that rues the day we ever became acquainted.  It’s spoiled me for the average steak experience.

The buttery texture of Wagyu remains unrivalled, though Cumbrian Belted Galloway used in steak tartare comes a close second. This is a good joy, given that Wagyu fillet costs £100. Sirloin is a more  reasonable £38 and flavour-packed ribeye, £55.

As part of the evening’s showcase, we were treated to scallop topped with Maison Kaviari, delicately grilled XL grilled langoustines, with Mary Rose sauce and lemon, Billingsgate Bouillabaisse, and of course Wagyu. 

Each dish was created using the finest ingredients, and the highest level kitchen expertise. At £195 per head, I’d be hard pressed to find an occasion special enough to justify the price tag of the evening set menu but it was lovely to receive a taster.Thankfully, the a la carte menu has a more approachable price point. Wagyu beef prosciutto – £14.50, Iberoco Duroc pork chop – £42. Side dishes come in at £6.50 so all in all a reasonable bill for such a high quality dining experience.
www.fourseasons.com/towerbridge/dining/restaurants/coopers-cut/

10 Trinity Square, London EC3N 4AJ.