For many vegans, vegetarians or those who simply do not fancy meat that day, a satisfying roast centrepiece can still feel surprisingly hard to find. Until now.
The nut roast was always the default veggie or vegan roast alternative. It still appears on many menus, but you might now also find a Wellington – often mushroom, beetroot or squash – or, if it is a little fancier, maybe a pithivier.
However, Symplicity – the meat-free brainchild of chef, Neil Rankin, and Homeslice founders, Alan and Mark Wogan – is bringing a new option to the table: the Symplicity Cranberry & Sage Roast. Initially landing in every Waitrose store in time for autumn.
The Symplicity Cranberry & Sage Roast looks like a loaf and is made with mushrooms, onions and beetroot, slowly fermented to build deep, rich umami flavour, then combined with creamy butter beans, sweet cranberries, fragrant sage and crunchy seeds.
Neil Rankin built his name on live-fire cookery and opened some of London’s most meat-focused restaurants. So, it was a surprise to me when after years of whole-animal cooking he decided to launch a meat-free brand from his desire to eat less meat.
I’m already a fan of Symplicity. I often have a tub of the Symplicity Vegetable ’Nduja to add flavour to sauces and the like. I also find that “fake meat” often comes with an unpleasant aftertaste and repeats on me, but with Symplicity this does not seem to be the case. Its use of slow vegetable fermentation – lacto-fermented in the same tradition as kimchi – means its sausages and burgers will often be my choice over others.
The Cranberry & Sage Roast has a pretty good flavour. Chunks of cranberry marry well with the sage, which comes through without overpowering. The flavour is strong enough that you can add gravy or another sauce if you want, but it also stands up on its own. The seeds on top of the loaf add texture and a delightful crunch to the whole thing.
In the oven the colour changed — which, trust me, isn’t always the case with veggie options. While the texture was a little… springy is the only word I can think of to describe it, it cut nicely into slices for presentation purposes. As with so many alternatives, it wasn’t dry either, which made it all the more enjoyable. If you’d prefer, it can also be cooked in, and has instructions for, an air fryer.
I realise many Brits love a roast and will enjoy one from the coldest days to the height of summer. Don’t get me wrong, I am a big fan of all the trimmings. But after many conversations on the topic, the general conclusion still seems to be that meat is usually the star of the roast and is realistically hard to replace.
I would liken the eating experience of the Symplicity Cranberry & Sage Roast more to eating a good stuffing than to eating a direct meat replacement. For me, this is fine, as I have always loved stuffing.
Would I opt for it again? Absolutely. This is by far one of the tastiest vegetarian or vegan roast options I have tried. It would work for everything from a weekly Sunday roast, especially now we’re heading into winter, to a vegetarian centrepiece for an occasion such as Christmas.
It also has 29g of protein per serving alongside 9g of fibre making it high in protein and fibre.
Symplicity launches its first roast into Waitrose nationwide from 10 September, RRP £7.95. Each 300g Cranberry & Sage Roast is recommended to serve two.