Engel, the cocktail bar and restaurant at The Royal Exchange, has Marlene Brunch, a new Saturday series bringing together live music, theatrical performances, and, of course, brunch. We go for a ride

There was a time when the City was dead on a weekend, the streets quiet and every building closed. Daytime you could, and many people did, send in film crews to get the shots required for dystopian post-holocaust films. Add in a few zombie bankers walking about (not hard)  and you had horror on the cheap.

Now it’s so different. The streets are still reasonably quiet on a weekend,  but bars and restaurants are doing good business and few more so than The Royal Exchange.

I have history with this building as I wrote the ‘History Of This Building’ plaque that’s set into the wall outside. Impressed? Oh well, suit yourself.

Passing that you enter the massive courtyard, once open to the elements but now roofed over. The Grade I listed building was remodelled in 2001 and transformed into a luxury shopping and dining destination, which explains the presence of all-day dining at Fortnum’s Bar & Restaurant on the ground floor.

We’re not here for Fortnum’s though, which is overrun with tourists anyway, we’re heading up to Engel on the north mezzanine, accessed via a glamorous staircase in the courtyard corner. It’s a sexy space because, whilst it’s semi lit by daylight,  it’s also under the edges of the building so it also has its lights on creating a permanent sense of attractive loucheness.

Which suits Engel as it has a 1920’s Berlin thing going on with a high-end hot dog trolley, and an all day menu featuring German Charcuterie, oysters and schnitzel — as well as regular live music and burlesque nights.

We’re here for Marlene Brunch, a new Saturday series bringing together live music, theatrical performances, and, of course, brunch. We arrive at 1pm and it’s already in full swing with today Selina Albright giving it some welly, along with guitar, sax and drums.

It is very loud, and I say that as a veteran punk who is a bit deaf in one ear from nights spent at pub gigs when I should have been revising for my A levels. I think this is the general view, as after the first set the volume comes down and we can finally talk without yelling.

She’s very good, the whole band is. The bar manager is finding it hard not to dance a bit as he moves about, and I can’t blame him as the bottomless fizz begins to kick in.

The short menu created by Engel chefs Samantha Williams and Lorena Tomassi is very attractive. To start we have classic Eggs Benedict with Brunswick ham (or you can have smoked salmon) on an English muffin with hollandaise sauce and smoked paprika oil. 

It’s very delicious, I am told by P, who is absolutely loving the whole Engel vibe and who is now sorry she moaned about being forced up town on a Saturday. This is better than Sainsbury’s.

My technicolour Engel Breakfast Hot Dog ( vegetarian is available) sautéed mushroom and onion, crispy bacon, mustard, ketchup, fried egg, brioche, is absolutely brilliant. The sausage has a perfect ‘snap’ to the skin and tastes great on its own. The other ingredients are a bonus on top. I eat it with a knife and fork, which is perhaps not the right way but it does mean my trousers don’t have to go to the dry cleaners the next day.

With the band now well into their groove P gets well into pan fried sea bass, cauliflower puree, charred cauliflower leaves, samphire, grilled broccoli, yuzu and soy glaze. It doesn’t sound very brunchy, but when it’s this good who cares? Excellent fish with crispy skin and packed full of flavours all the way through.

I am more brunch minded with Buttermilk Fried Chicken, waffle, crispy bacon, maple syrup and Sriracha mayo. It’s perfect chicken – crunchy outside, moist within and the waffle is crispy soft. The contrast of the Millennial Mayo with the smokey syrup is perfect, and I do love properly crispy bacon. I’m very happy with it all. It’s toe-tapping ‘tastic.

P goes very decadent with dessert – Black Forest Pancake – basically a  chocolate and cherry pancake, topped with whipped cream chocolate sauce. I’m a bit more restrained with a Matcha Cheesecake made with matcha on a crunchy biscuit base and topped off with a berry coulis and fresh raspberries, you could almost call it healthy.

When we leave the band is still going strong, tables are full and people are all smiling. The City is alive and well.

On 25th October, the spotlight turns to Miss Jolie Papillon, Burlesque Idol UK winner and star of the world-renowned La Clique. The series continues with Ronnie Scott’s regular Natalie Williams, celebrated Voice UK winner Jermain Jackman, and the Atila Huseyin

Location: Engel, Mezzanine, The Royal Exchange, London EC3

Booking Times: Saturdays, 12-2pm, 1:30pm-3:30pm and 2-4pm

Prices: £45 for 2 Courses | £50 for 3 Courses | Add £30 for free-flowing fizz or spritz

Bookings: engelbar.co.uk | @engel.london

engelbar.co.uk