The Japanese art of yakiniku – meaning “grilled meat” – has long been cherished for its balance of precision, conviviality and indulgence.

Rooted in a tradition of communal dining, yakiniku invites guests to gather around a glowing charcoal or gas grill, to cook delicately marbled cuts of meat to personal perfection.

And while the yakiniku concept is no stranger to London, with many establishments offering their own take on tabletop grilling, Kanpai Classic the restaurant remains a buzzing location.

We arrive for the opening of 5:30 but by 6 all the tables are filled.

Kanpai Classic arrived to Soho from South Asia, where the wagyu focused yakiniku group have been present since 1999, tailoring each restaurant to the local market.

Here in Soho it serves a selection of rare sakes, a la carte of fish and wagyu A5 grade as well as signature sets.

We try to sample a bit of everything starting with a wagyu beef tartar topped with sturgeon caviar.

It’s a delicate work of art. Richly marbled and impeccably fresh, dressed with very minimal subtle seasoning that allows the natural sweetness of the beef to shine.

A generous spoonful of glossy sturgeon caviar crowns the dish, adding the familiar briny elegance that contrasts nicely with the buttery texture of wagyu.

The tartar is paired with round crunchy corn chips, the spice rub on the tortillas deserves a mention, a perfect balance of paprika, salt and black pepper makes them irresistible even on their own.

We ask for a few extra to munch while we are invited to check out the meat board. As with most  steakhouses there is a meat board but in Kanpai Classic case it’s full on wagyu from mignon to picanha cuts.

Guests can pick two for the Signature Wagyu Omakase menu.

For drinks we opt for some cocktails, you’ll find all the usual suspects shochu, yuzu, kumquat, matcha the list goes on.

Kumquat mojito seems just right for the hot day we’ve been having today. It’s citrusy, balanced on mint, but not as sweet as I would normally expect from a mojito.

Kumquat also holdsa strong ground with fresh halves wedged between the ice cubes, adds for a snack. My guests and I later fish out to enjoy.

She is having the zero alcohol version. While we wait for the meat to sizzle on the charcoal we dive into the wagyu chips.

At only £5 is a bargain for such establishment, and London in general nowadays.

All the cuts are introduced and cooked for convenience although there is an option for customers to cook themselves if they want to.

There is rib figure, karubi, negiyaki, and of course our 2 steaks. Some come with million little dips, house spring onion, seaweed, egg, on lettuce, rice while other are encouraged to be enjoyed pure just with black pepper and salt.

We both love the tongue slices. Tongue has such a disctict texture and natural marbling, this one is also wagyu. It’s interesting to see that even the tongue of wagyu cows has that unmistakable flavour.

Another dish we are highly encouraged to try is house kamameshi. A dish consisting of rice with chicken and dashi broth, which comes in it’s unique clay teapot and a stone kettle on the side.

Quite an experience on its own, the pot is to hold chicken broth, each of us gets a bit of rice in a bowl, side of condiments and a pour of the broth over it.

Comforting, delicious yet healthy finale to our wagyu focused meal.

But be sure to save some room for dessert, it’s well worth it.

Among the standout dishes, the tiramisu is particularly striking in it’s presentation, textured plate with a deep-set middle.

The creamy layers and sponge, richly soaked and impeccably levelled to the plate’s edge, are as elegant as they were indulgent. I only managed a bite before my guest polished it off.

My own dessert, the strawberry cheesecake, leans more bready than creamy. Subtly sweet and paired with a natural strawberry compote, it’s balanced and satisfying in a quieter way.

Kanpai Classic is a fabulous spot for social gatherings and dates. While the clear spotlight is on high-grade wagyu, yakiniku, and an enviable sake selection, there’s plenty to please fish and veggie lovers too — like the delicate yellowtail hand rolls and other seasonal bites.

If you haven’t paid a visit yet, it’s well worth the money and the detour.

Kanpai Classic, 147-149 Wardour St, London W1F 8WD