City boys and girls do love their steak. Liverpool Street Chop House, a modern interpretation of Sir Terence Conran’s original New Street Grill, delivers in hunks.
Not a City man myself, my loyalties have always lain in seedy Soho, I did rather like Conran’s New Street Grill. The 18th-century tea warehouse had genuine character and the outside terrace was lovely on a sunny day. Plus the food was very good
It is no more, sadly, but like a phoenix from the Josper grill’s charcoal ashes, The Liverpool Street Chop House has arisen, all dark wood, deep reds and blues, crisp white linen, and brass and gold details. I don’t suppose one is allowed to call this style ‘masculine’ any more, so let’s settle on ‘City’.
Conran Restaurants, as a little background, was a big London player until 2007, when Conran sold 49% of the business to Des Gunewardena and David Loewi, who rebranded it D&D. It went from strength to strength, until it didn’t.
The Evolv Collection took D&D over, essentially it’s become Conran again, and this lunchtime its CEO Martin Williams is tucking into a very large piece of steak while talking about his love of Conran’s style and the ‘honour’ he feels taking on the portfolio of restaurants.
“This restaurant is a respectful re-imagination of our founder, Sir Terence Conrans’ Chophouse brand and part of our strategic vision for The Evolv Collection,” he says, while getting around a Scotch egg.
We can save all the CEO stuff for another time though, let’s talk about the food. Mike Reid (no, not that one) is the chef here having been culinary director of Rare Restaurants, including M Restaurants in London, and Gaucho, and he’s also at table showing off the meat trolley, a mobile butchers block weighed down with prime cuts of raw juiciness.
This piece of carnal theatre is offered to all diners, and for those of us not entirely au fait with the cuts it’s educational. Certainly seeing meat in the wild as it were, and not in a plastic tomb on a supermarket shelf, is good for appreciation. All their chops and steaks come from the very excellent Ethical Butcher partner farms, by the way.
While our meat is whisked off to hit the grill, we busy ourselves with Dark Sourdough with a choice of melted Jersey Butter, Garlic and Herb butter or, somewhat surprisingly, British Chorizo. All good, especially the bread itself which actually I would have preferred eating with just thick slices of cold, firm butter.
The Scotch Egg is a belter; smoked haddock surrounding a perfect yolk and, as the CEO is here, the optional topping of Caviar Oscietra added for a saline ‘pop’. Even better is a Beef & Bone Marrow Crumpet – the rich bone marrow melts into the chopped beef and the crumpet is delightfully springy with its many buttery holes soaking up the topping wonderfully.
With the arrival of the steaks, attention turns to the knives which we choose from a presentation box. No ordinary knives, these are Blenheim Forge knives, Japanese inspired and crafted by a small team by hand in a railway arch in South London, they are things of beauty and very expensive, so I expect they are carefully counted out and in. You can’t trust these money brokers.
The steaks are absolutely superb, some of the best I’ve eaten outside of Spain. The flavour, the texture, the doneness are all spot on, and the knife glides through them like, well like a knife through butter.
Ox Heart Tomato and Peach Salad is a ridiculously good accompaniment, the peach an inspired addition. Creamed Leeks with English Mustard I’m not so fond of, but then I’ve never liked leeks much.
Also on the menu is an array of chops, a roast chicken pie (I tried some, it’s very good) and all kinds of dishes that fit in with the ‘Dickensian’ theme, such as Ale-Braised Ox Cheek and Bone Marrow Pie, and Beef Shin and Oyster Suet Pudding. There are not a lot of vegetarian options, which is no surprise – the clue is in the name.
Desserts are public school favourites, all the things that small boys like and I do too. The trifle is generous and well-sherried, I had a large helping
It was good to see people here dining past 2pm. Perhaps the tyranny of desk-bound eating is on the wane, and about time too. A proper lunch is vital to a good afternoon’s work.
If New Liverpool Street Chop House is an example of how Evolv intends to evolve, Conran’s legacy is in good hands
16a New St, London EC2M 4TR