Luisa Welch discovers the heart of Veneto’s red wine country
In a region famous for wines such as Valpolicella, Amarone, Soave and Prosecco, welcome to Veneto’s best-kept secret: Colli Berici.
The Berici Hills, and the city of Vicenza, are the ‘green heart’ of Veneto in North East Italy, offering a compelling combination of natural beauty, architectural marvels, and cultural experiences. These hills, located just south of Vicenza, provide a picturesque backdrop with their lush greenery and vineyards, whilst Vicenza, renowned as a UNESCO World Heritage site, boasts stunning Palladian villas and a rich history.
The extraordinary feature is that, despite their proximity to Vicenza, famous for its white wines such as Soave and Pinot Grigio, Colli Berici couldn’t be more different: with half Vicenza’s annual rainfall and higher average temperatures, this is where red grapes thrive. There are 850 growers and 600 ha of vineyards, concentrated on the Berici slopes.
These fossil-rich, limestone hills were once part of an ancient tropical seabed, but as they were forced upwards from the tectonic folding and lifting of numerous volcanic cones, they were formed into the undulating hills which still distinguish them today. Stretching about 20km, with hills up to 400m high, this is where you will find the rare, almost unique, Tai Rosso.
You’d be forgiven for not having heard of this grape before. Neither had I. But I knew Tocai Rosso. Then I realised that Tai is a contraction of T(oc)ai, a name which can no longer be used for grapes outside Hungary, since this country claimed global primacy for the name Tokaji/Tocai).
Tai Rosso has the same origins of Grenache Noir from France and Spain, also known as Cannonau in Sardinia. However, this grape has gone ‘native’ in Colli Berici, as this is virtually the only place in Northern Italy to grow it.
Tai Rosso may have the same DNA as Grenache, but with bigger grapes, thicker sinks and paler colour, it looks and tastes very different.
The chalky nature of the rocks has evolved in terrain with red clays, rich in body and suited for giving structure to Tai Rosso, whilst the volcanic cones have added precious minerals to the soil, which contribute to the subtlety of flavour and fragrance.
A wine which encapsulates the essence of Colli Berici is Corallo (coral) which pays homage to the soils formed from marine deposits found where the Tai Rosso vineyards are located. Produced by Cavazza, the 2021 vintage is a bright ruby red wine with fruity aromas of cherry and red apple, and hints of floral notes. Surprisingly easy-drinking, it’s smooth, soft, harmonious and very pleasant, although it packs a punch at 14% abv.
Another great example is Tai Rosso from Cantina Perogaro, made from old vines. The 2023 vintage is a classic, marked by the most distinctive scents of cherry and raspberry, rose and black pepper. In Vicenza, it’s enjoyed with Baccala’, a traditional dish of dry cod slowly simmered in milk with a soffritto of onions, garlic and anchovies, and it’s often served with polenta. If you have not tasted with Veneto region speciality, you have been missing out, and now you know which wine to pair with it.
The DOC Colli Berici includes other international red varieties, such as Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carmenere, Merlot and Pinot Nero.
Whilst continuing to explore the area, you will also come across splendid Palladian-style villas, villages, retreats and convents which testify to how this land, today as in the past, appeals strongly to visitors, and attracts growers for the favourable cultivation of not only grapes, but also olives.
The term “Palladian” refers to the architecture of the villas designed by Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio and you will find many vineyards close to these masterpieces – some villas were even converted into wineries.
In 2024, 73.5% of the wine produced was from red grapes, with Merlot the dominant variety. A great example is Casara Roveri Merlot 2022 crafted with care by the renowned Dal Maso winery. This is a full-bodied wine, persistent and complex, with hints of plums, chocolate and spices, aged in wood and long-lasting.
Of note is the highly rated Carminium 2021 which is pure Carmenere, another international variety which thrives here. With violet florals and rich savoury spicy notes, it is intense yet fresh, and comes from Inama, a family business which has been producing wines for over 50 years.
Cantina di Gambellara produces, among a vast range, an excellent Monopolio Colli Berici 2021, a blend of the indigenous Tai Rosso with Merlot and Pinot Noir; whilst Piovene Porto Godi is a producer known for his Pozzare 2021, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Both are big wines, structured and packed with red fruit flavours.
As well as discovering these delicious red wines, the Berici Hills are perfect for hiking, cycling and exploring the local flora and fauna, and of course the cultural heritage of this unique area.
The Consortium for the Protection of the Berici Hills and the Vicenza Wines has been operating since 2011, when two separate associations, Consorzio Tutela Vini Colli Berici DOC and Consorzio Tutela Vini Vicenza DOC, merged. The new Consortium aims to protect, promote and develop the wines and wine sales of the Colli Berici and Vicenza.