The latest Soho spot unites South and North of Thailand regional kitchen and small plates, a standout experience indeed.

Each time I walk through Soho I discover something new. Today is a newly opened Platapian, part of the Patara family.  

Worry not, Patara hasn’t left, the business still remains well within the family, just given way to niece Nam Parama Raiva to add a modern flair, spice and authenticity.

The former Patara space has been redesigned to follow the trend with grey and brown as the leading tones and a spirit house on display in the center. A traditional centrepiece in many Thai homes and restaurants.

To keep it like home the walls are adorned with family pictures and shelves of jarred pickles and ferments. Pendant lighting creates a sense of mystery and tranquility, echoing Thai riverside homes.

The menu has plenty of smaller portions, some almost tapas style designed to be indulged between friends. Such as a pair of miang kham scallops on betel leaf.

Served as a mini taco to wrap naturally a little bitter betel leaf is perfect to hold all the goodness piled on the scallop. And there is a ton, dried shrimp, slivers of shallots, ginger, chilli and roasted shavings of coconut.

All mingled well, forming this tangy, spicy and sweet marriage into a one bite size dish. Next is the duck spring roll, a little clichéd but thick with plentiful meat filling it’s no standard duck roll.

I also couldn’t miss the puffed chicken skins, similar to the popular pub snack pork scratchings, but far superior in flavour. Dusted in powdered kaffir leaf, pepper, garlic with a lime wedge for a squeeze, it’s a perfect amuse bouche.

Unlike the overpriced and overhyped bread restaurants have been serving us lately, the skins come to far less and were tastier, just £3.80 for a generous bowl.

Another tempting plate I can’t miss trying is a grilled rib eye skewer, it might sound ordinary at first but the fermented fish marinade makes it extraordinary.

It’s rare to come across meat with fish in such a form, a little pungent but that’s what makes it unusually good in a way that wouldn’t be for everyone, but is definitely for me.

Platapian has a modern take on cocktails too, Thai Whiskey Sour takes a frothy tall form here, ombre coloured, slowly progressing to pink lilac top, effusing heady notes of Mekhong.

My guest is a big fan. While I’m indulging on the Mango Sticky Rice, not a dessert no, a cocktail, although dessert is also available later on.

It’s sticky rice, mango puree and Finlandia vodka, an uncommon brand lately but it’s actually one of my favourites. Being rye based the vodka has some unrepeated notes.

The cocktail itself is short and refreshing with a balanced not too sweet joy.

Before moving onto the mains, one more dish deserves a mention and that is spicy tuna crudo.

Being crudos a staple for me I learnt they frequently remain on the same scale, the sauce arrow leaning towards soy or lime, tipping one way or another, all always staying within the Japanese flavour vibe.

Except for today, here it’s lemongrass, chilli and I want to say more about that anchovy fish sauce and its seductive non Japanese umami spiced kick.

Now we are ready for the mains. Both selected from Platapian signatures (little fish sign): a beef short rib in five spice is a meat only dish, making it an excellent value for money at £22 you get all the meat. With a welcome bonus of fresh cucumbers and a sour green sauce.

And the meat is well worth the indulgence, fall off the bone meat smothered in tangy aromatic rich sauce. Plus we get the rice from our second main – braised beef and crispy fat pot.

Cooked in a fresh banana leaf and served in a beautiful terracotta clay pot. I channels my Eastern European in me reminding of the lavish plov, a one-pot wonder where rice, meat, spices and veg soak up a rich broth to become comfort in every bite.  Like plov this delightful pottery rice is meat and spice infused. It’s simply divine, a perfect colder month fix that will warm you up and hug from within.

As mentioned Platapian brings regional dishes to Soho so the dessert arrives from Southern Thailand where it’s enjoyed as a street food, cooked on the spot topped with fried banana and coconut syrup. It’s sweet, tasty and cool as the name translates.

Platapain shines a new fresh light on over exhausted dishes like fish raws, pots and sticks helping you rediscover them again. This is the place for something compelling on the occasions when you’re bored of the “usual” whatever that noun means to you personally.

Platapian, 15 Greek St, London W1D 4DP

www.pataralondon.com