High above Paddington station Ce La Vie has a new chef and a new summer menu. We were invited to sample the dishes and see if they’re right up there. They are.
Back when I lived around the corner, in the most sordid bedsit you can imagine, this area was grim. For the first two weeks I was harassed every time I went out for a pint of milk by prostitutes and drug addicts. After that they recognised me as a local and left me alone although anyone that came to see me had to run the gauntlet and usually arrived wide-eyed and semi-hysterical.
It’s not the same now, of course. Paddington basin and canal is very chic, the station has been tarted up and above the new Tube exit is a brand new building, the Renzo Piano Building Workshop that’s crowned, at 17/18 floors up, by Cé La Vie.
A glass lift whooshes you to heaven, a preview of the almost 360 degree fabulous views awaiting at the restaurant itself, which is very large indeed with over 400 covers with 180 in the restaurant and 120 covers on the clubby floor above.
Cé La Vies can be found in Singapore, Dubai, Taipei and Tokyo in equally high buildings, and It’s a Pan Asian sharing menu, although new Head Chef Elton Zaka tells us he’s from Greece originally. He’s brought his own experience and expertise to the menu, but is keen to reassure people that Ce La Vie classics remain unchanged.
Dishes come out at pace, each beautifully presented and all extremely good. Sharing is fun, but I’d have selfishly liked some of the dishes, such as the yellowtail sashimi with lemongrass sauce and green chili all to myself. Same goes for another starter of heritage tomato and watermelon with shiso, lemon dressing and almond flakes. The compressed watermelon against the zing of the tomatoes and lemon is an absolute flavour bomb.
Dish soon follows dish with precision and flavour, and whilst every one of them is good to look at, the visuals are never replacing the core values of quality and creativity.
Satay Chicken Breast Coconut rice, bok choy, peanut satay sauce, coriander, red chill is a substantial dish, as a single main it would probably satisfy one person quite easily, as would the Lamb Chops with Citrus red miso and rice pops, Under the coating the chops are perfectly rose coloured and they demand to be gnawed down to the bone, so I do.
More fish delish comes in the shape of Salmon Sashimi, Scottish salmon, spicy citrus miso, aged soy dressing. Buttery smooth, super fresh fish
Perhaps. No, in fact definitely, my favourite dish is Black Truffle “Sushi Rice” risotto with Butternut squash, parmesan mousse and fresh truffle. Some people think truffles are overrated but not me. This was an absolute umami fest and something any vegetarian would rave over, the rice a real revelation.
And who doesn’t like kimchi, apart from my wife? Kimchi Fried Rice with Red chilli and crispy shallots is almost a dish on its own although it’s labelled a side , I loved this one too, easy to fork up and in.
I couldn’t find room for Matcha Brulee, Coconut sorbet, crunchy white chocolate, and a Semi-Frozen Champagne Mousse with a strawberry sphere with ginger and lemongrass, chocolate pearls so I share. I do love Matcha
it had all been washed down with some well chosen wines, so I was a trifle bleary when leaving but had to stop again to drink in the amazing view.
This really is the life.
1 PADDINGTON SQUARE
17th & 18th Floor, London
W2 1DL