London never stops amazing me. Restaurants are constantly competing for their spot under the sun, each trying to offer something unique.
In a city with so much choice, even being good, or even world-known, sometimes isn’t enough.
I find myself at MITSU, at a location I remember from a Nobu summer terrace party a few years back. Quite a bit has changed since then. What was once Nobu is now home to the Aethes Hotel and Japanese restaurant MITSU.
The lighting is darker, dimmed and intimate, while the décor showcases Japan, with lanterns on wall shelves and kakejiku decorating the bar.
The terrace remains one of my favourites in Shoreditch, a hidden green gem, tucked between layered seating, natural stone walls and lush foliage.
Upon entry, we pass the round bar and further down is the restaurant itself, with spacious seating, stylish booths and an open-plan kitchen — exactly where we’re going to be today.
To learn how to roll, fold and slice, all to make sushi under the guidance of the chef.
It’s a very one-on-one experience, it’s a maximum of 4 students per chef, which is what I love but also a tad intimidating when I’m trying to handle a sharp Japanese handmade knife and cut the perfect slice of hamachi.
The technique is all about gliding, barely applying any pressure to the knife. It reminds me of a movie scene where a silk scarf lands on a sword and splits in half despite its feather-light weight.
We take turns preparing a plate for ourselves: wild Spanish tuna, farmed Scottish salmon and Japanese hamachi.
Before moving onto the nigiri, a new cut is added — fatty tuna. Its rich texture makes slicing quite challenging as it sticks to the knife. One down, two more to go, good thing at least the chutoro is prepped for our makis.
The fatty tuna is placed on evenly, or kind of evenly layered sushi rice, arranging sticky rice on nori looks far easier than it actually is.
The most important lesson I learn here is that rolling maki as tightly as possible is key. I thought I had tightened mine well, but upon cutting into it, the ingredients were a little loose inside.
To absorb the information to the max, we’re staying away from trying too many cocktails, tempting as they are.
Like the chefs, the bartender here is a master at his work. I fancy a cloudy yuzu martini, something I once tried in a different Japanese bar.
I had no clue exactly what was in it, but after a few questions from him, he comes back with a glass of his creation and it’s just the way I envisioned it.
If challenging bartenders isn’t your thing, there is also a designated list of cocktails featuring predominantly Japanese whiskies and gins.
Should you pursue the path of sampling the fabulous drinks, the memory can be refreshed with pictures and guidelines in the sushi handbook that we’re given to take home.
Before sampling we also have a temaki to make, the cone-shaped sushi. I always considered temaki the lazy sushi for those who don’t want to roll properly.
Apparently, I was wrong. Connecting the narrow bit of nori is crucial, otherwise you end up with a hollow tail like a Cornetto sometimes does, with the ice cream melting out the bottom.
No ice cream here, but somehow chewing on nori rolled into a tail rather than a sharp 90-degree cone just doesn’t taste the same.
The masterclass takes place every Friday at 3pm. At £150, I think it’s a good value for money and a great experience to share with a friend or partner.
Although our presentation is a little uneven, it can’t ruin the quality and freshness of the fish, which simply beats my wobbly makis.
In addition to our own sushi, there is also seafood dumplings, edamame and miso, plus the star of the show: Basque black sesame cheesecake, with a beautifully runny middle, exactly as these cheesecakes should be.
From learning the knife technique to discovering just how difficult a seemingly simple sushi roll can be, the MITSU masterclass is less about making sushi and more about appreciating the precision behind it.
Add good food, a beautiful setting and cocktails made properly from scratch, and £150 feels like a rather enjoyable afternoon well spent.
MITSU, 10-50 Willow St, London EC2A 4BH