The White Post, Rimpton, Somerset, BA22 8AR, UK.

Although the word makes me shudder, I will use it as it’s befitting: The White Post straddles two counties: Somerset and the other Dorset. In bygone days, when different drinking laws applied to different counties, punters would rush from one end of the bar to the other to continue their bibulous affair.

These days, the White Post is a family-restaurant, run by award-winning chef and former accountant, Brett Sutton and wife, Kelly.

It nestles, oh there I go again, but it deserves a’nestle’, which it does in the village of Rimpton, surrounded by a verdant charm, dotted with haystacks.

Since winning Taste of West award in 2014, it has beckoned many for its hearty Sunday Lunches, and so gets quickly booked up.

We arrived at a near empty restaurant and by 1pm, it was indeed bursting.

A starter of cauliflower and truffle soup was welcome, light and creamy, while dining partner got a happy-hued dish of West Bay mackerel, cucumber and horseradish.

The big deal here though is lunch, which comes served, as the trend dictates, on huge rustic boards. Most carnivores are happily catered for with three kinds of meat, including suitably pink roast beef and lamb.

All very tasty, though suggestion that a portion for two adults would be enough for the three of us (bearing in mind Little L had devoured most of the meat) meant it was a little short of what we would have liked.

It came with a tumble of colossal Yorkshire puddings, proper gravy and sides of cauliflower cheese (very delicious) and pickled red cabbage – a favourite of mine. The roasted veg’, was just as it should be, slightly sweet and a bit of a crunch, though I was a little underwhelmed by the potatoes cooked in dripping, which were slightly too hard for me.

Dessert was one for serious cream lovers. A version of sticky toffee pudding served, again as is trendy, in a jar. We had strawberries and Dorset cream, to which Little L recoiled, so I had to eat it. I then had the Eton mess with lemon balm, strawberries and cream, and it was girth-expanding fun.