Megan finds a rather grand ‘Indian’ in Westminster has earned its Michelin mention

When a waiter recommends a dish and says it reminds them of a family recipe, you know you’ve hit the jackpot. And that was the case at Yaatra when the waiter assured me that their version of the classic Indian dessert, carrot halwa, was just as good as his mother’s. 

The mastermind behind these authentic dishes is Executive Chef Amit Bagyal who has recently reopened this Westminster fine dining spot which occupies a Grade II listed former fire station. |

Even from the outside, you can tell that Yaatra has something a little bit more to offer than your average Indian restaurant and this hint came from the archway of flowers, blooming around the entrance. 

Inside, the decor shone brighter – literally – grand chandeliers enveloped the traditional dining room in a warm, yellow light which enhanced the authentic red and yellow marigold garlands adorning the walls behind the bar. While the decor was loud, exciting, and full of character, the rest of the atmosphere fell on the flatter side – namely, in the lack of music on the evening of our visit.

But I wasn’t here to appreciate Indian music, I was here for the food, and the food stood out in all of its authentic glory. Taking inspiration from the highways and byways of India, chef Bagyal offers tasting menus, sharing platters, and an a la carte menu packed with experimental flavours as well as familiar favourites that will never fail to impress. 

We began with the steamed chicken momos (a Tibetan-Nepalese dumpling) and battered fingers of amritsari fish served with cumin mushy peas which almost convinced me that us Brits needed to hand over our fish and chip crowns.

While we felt confident with our choice of starters, we turned to our waiter for recommendations on the main course. After all, with everything from a classic tandoori platter, to mushroom malai curry, to lamb shank biryani on the menu, it took about half an hour of debating to finally decide. 

Chef Bagyal’s Garhwal Goat Osso Buco with ginger and turmeric sauce is one of those dishes that takes inspiration from a family recipe – in this case, his grandmother. An aromatic, spicy sauce landed on the runny side but this really wasn’t an issue, it just meant more of the delicious, flavour-packed curry to mop up with our sides of saffron rice and a herby, garlic naan. The goat meat itself deserves a mention – juicy, delectable and so soft that it literally fell off the bones nestled deep in the curry sauce. 

The second dish was no less impressive – in fact, it was possibly more so (just don’t tell chef Bagyal that his grandmother’s recipe wasn’t my favourite). Chargrilled with a crispy skin, the sea bream rested on a brightly coloured pool of kiri hodi, a coconut milk gravy-style sauce spiced with fragrant fenugreek seeds and earthy turmeric that left me mopping up every last drop with my naan as only good curries deserve.

A top tip for dining at Yaatra is to leave room for dessert. Sure, you’ll want to fully indulge in the curry masterclass that the mains deliver, but I promise it’s worth it. Going off the waiter’s promise that the carrot halwa was as good as his mum’s, we opted to split this and the rasmalai strawberry cheesecake. As I mentioned at the start, the traditional halwa was a highlight. Shaped into a disc and topped with strawberries, the grated carrot was soft, without being mushy, and warmly spiced with cardamom.

A top tip for dining at Yaatra is to leave room for dessert. Sure, you’ll want to fully indulge in the curry masterclass that the mains deliver, but I promise it’s worth it. Going off the waiter’s promise that the carrot halwa was as good as his mum’s, we opted to split this and the rasmalai strawberry cheesecake. As I mentioned at the start, the traditional halwa was a highlight. Shaped into a disc and topped with strawberries, the grated carrot was soft, without being mushy, and warmly spiced with cardamom.

Being such a standout dessert, it was hard for the cheesecake to live up to the glorious heights of the halwa. It was thick and creamy but as far as cheesecakes go, it wasn’t anything special. 

Plus, my eyes were distracted by a different dessert landing on the table next to us, and not just by its yummy-looking appearance but by the fact it was literally set on fire in front of the diners. A mixed berry mousse was encased in a chocolate sphere which melted into a pool when the waiter poured flaming spiced rum over the top – but, to be fair, I would expect a decent show for a mousse that costs £12. 

From the flowers on the street, to the flaming desserts, Yaatra proves why it earned a spot on this year’s Michelin Guide. It’s full of elegance and authenticity but has just enough creative flair for diners to know that they’ve found something special.

Yaatra Westminster

4 Greycoat Place, Westminster, London, SW1P 1SB

www.yaatrarestaurant.com