Putting aside his resentment at being denied a place at the University, Nick travels to the City of perspiring dreams to eat at the excellent Oz and Isle instead.
I never ‘went’ to Cambridge, turning up an hour late to the entrance exam with a blinding hangover was the probable cause. I wanted to go to art college, so I hadn’t taken the Cambridge exam seriously.
I probably wouldn’t have passed anyway, but I now regret my insouciance rather bitterly. A lot of doors would have opened, I might even have ended up all over Radio 4, like so many Cantabs.
Walking down the road past the college that I once applied for, on my way to eat, I put the past behind me. Cambridge is still a very beautiful place and a visit is always worthwhile.
The destination today was not an exam room but I had definitely come to test something, the relatively new Hobson Cambridge by Adina. A very chic Aparthotel hewn from a Grade-II listed former stables, police station and fire station. Adina is a very cool Australian hotel brand with outposts in mainland Europe, Scotland and now Cambridge.
Aparthotel means that you can self cater, to an extent. You get a kettle of course, but also a fridge, microwave and cutlery in your very stylish room. Downstairs in reception a large chill cabinet is kept constantly stocked with nice things to ‘nuke’, as well as beers and wine and, there’s a Sainsbury’s bang over the road that’s open late.
Not for me though, I was heading to the recently opened Oz & Isle all day restaurant. Heading through reception, past stained glass windows and the open air, you arrive in a wonderful large and soaring space, the old Drill Yard now with a vaulted ceiling of glass and enough greenery to make Monty Don wax lyrical. The bare brick of the walls, the low lighting and a mix of different size tables, along with some sofas, is very cosy and welcoming.
Officially, and by that I mean the website, ‘Oz & Isle is a “drinks-led concept where Australia’s landscapes meet the flavours and traditions of the British Isles, expressed through natural wines, inventive cocktails, non-alcoholic serves and seasonal sharing plates with a distinctly modern edge”. Which sounds interesting, if ambitious.
Certainly the cocktails are well made and the all day menu has lots of choices. It’s also one of those spots where the solo diner doesn’t feel out of place. As it’s a hotel there are plenty of individuals who are passing through on business and apparently it’s popular with visiting academics.
The sharing plates are quite large for one person, but I did in fact have a wingman so we could dig a little deeper into the menu. A whole board of cheeses, with lots of unusual and classy crackers and toasted bread plus figs, showed off a well curated choice of local and UK fromages, such as Barkham blue, Golden Cross, Quickes Cheddar and the wonderful Fen cheese Baron Bigod, pronounced ‘By God’ which is even stinkier than a well-known, now ex, Prince A but absolutely delicious.
We paired it with a meat board of Lomo, Bresaola, Mortadella, ham and a game terrine with toasted sourdough and pickles. All very well sourced and prettily presented. A pure vegetarian board is also on the menu.
It’s all good grazing, but more substantial small plates are on offer, such as a smoked haddock croquette or gin and dill cured salmon with potato salad, mustard and parsley oil.
We had these with some parmesan chips, then shared a properly pink sirloin steak with a lively salsa verde. It came pre sliced which was a very handy enhancement.
Vegans are well catered for with a celeriac steak, mushroom caramel, truffled wild mushrooms and a tarragon peppercorn and white miso butter.
Finishing off a well-priced bottle of my new favourite wine, Picpoul, we shared a date sponge with a spiced caramel sauce and ice cream, all good and sticky stuff.
Oz & Isle also do an afternoon tea (students take note, Mum will like this) and of course breakfast as well.
It’s a real find in Cambridge, a reasonably priced place to eat that’s open all day and a real delight to be in.
I am pleased to say it passed the exam.
thehobsoncambridge.com
The Hobson by Adina,
42-44 St. Andrew’s Street,
Cambridge, CB2 3AS,
United Kingdom