Located right above The Hoxton Hotel just a throwaway from Blackfriars Bridge is Seabird, a bar and restaurant with a beautiful green terrace.
As the name suggests, Seabird is a creature of all things seafood, from oysters, octopus and scallops to its signature Afternoon Sea, where a tiered fruits de mer platter takes centre stage.
With clear Southern European roots, Spanish influences weave through the menu: Ibérico ham, pintxos and of course, Rubia Gallega steak, one of my favorites and still a rarity in London.
But first the starters, my non fish eating guest goes for exactly that – the ham, Iberico Bellota. I’m sure this is stating the obvious but in case not, the Spanish made their jamon aisle easy to navigate.
With four main labels from black to white label, black being the best, 100% black hoof pigs, native to Spain, acorn fed and free range. Bellota meaning acorn in Spanish.
Seabird starter is Ibérico Bellota, masterfully cut, with a beautiful nutty flavour. Served at room temperature, it allows the rich oleic fat to gently melt, leaving a glossy, silky finish.
Comes well paired with grilled sourdough. Meanwhile, my starter is grilled scallops with sobrasada butter — a spicy Mallorcan sausage. Its sauce is surprisingly mild, with a gentle warmth and a strong note of paprika.
The scallops are cooked to perfection, with a slightly pink centre. Both of our starters disappear in no time.
Both our starters disappear in no time, before we turn to the star of the show a sharing Rubia Gallega steak.
The steak carries a bit of history too, from Galician cattle allowed to roam freely for at least four years. The free-grazing cows develop beautiful marbling and an unparalleled depth of flavour.
Another highlight of Seabird is its open-plan kitchen — our seats give a great view as we watch our steak cook over an open flame, served medium rare, it arrives with a rich fat rim.
And even for those who usually leave it aside, doing so here would feel like a crime.
We pair it with classic sides, including thick chips, expertly fried. My favoured part is never actually the chips themselves, although these are very good but the potato lace.
Crisps into delicate shards when fried, it forms as the hand-cut edges create a starchy surface, leaving the chips almost dusted with crisp fragments.
We pair the meal with a cloudy Portuguese Moscatel Galego, a natural choice on such a hot day before turning to Basque cheesecake for dessert.
I first met Basque cheesecake on a hungry stroll after a surfing class in San Sebastian. It felt like a movie script, walking slowly back to my residence, window shopping, Spanish study books in my bright green oversized bag.
I craved something, not knowing what. A Spanish tavern caught my eye and there it was, under a glass dome: half a cake with a dark, burnt top. The dim lighting made it even more dramatic.
The contrast of the creamy middle was gooey and spilling slightly onto the plate. That was it, I wanted it, without even knowing what it was yet. That’s how I met the one and we’ve been in love ever since.
A decade or so later, Basque cheesecake is finally in the UK and no one thinks the centre is undercooked anymore.
But the biggest problem remains: it keeps changing form, and despite many variations, I’m yet to find my true love like in San Sebastian.
Sadly, it’s not quite there at Seabird this time. It looks promising, with manchego both inside and grated on top but it lacks that signature runny middle.
The manager assures us it’s usually much creamier. Seabird itself is a beautiful airy rooftop venue with a strong menu, something rare in London rooftops.
That combination makes me think I’ll return, perhaps for cocktails, another dish, or another attempt at the cheesecake. Until there are direct flights to San Sebastian, the search continues.
With cocktails starting at £16 and mains from £30, Seabird isn’t cheap. It’s not your usual Spanish tavern, but a refined spot for special occasions, dates or when you want to treat yourself.
Seabird, 14th Floor, South Bank, 40 Blackfriars Rd, London SE1 8NY