Cara explores Kanishka by Atul Kochhar, where North East Indian flavours meet contemporary cuisine in the heart of Mayfair.
Britain is no stranger to Indian food, neither am I but as my friends know I normally pass on the invitation.
But Kanishka by Atul Kochhar got my attention, I received an email about their special evening, 3rd of July was Taste of Goa evening, curated by Chef Atul Kochhar and Executive Chef Ashok Kumar.
Inspired by centuries of Portuguese and Indian influences the evening was offering guests an opportunity to explore the distinctive regional cuisines through a contemporary lens.
I’m told they hold such evenings regularly and each is inspired by a different region so do keep an eye out. Next one is in autumn.
Kanishka is a high end establishment, it’s clear from its sleek design, bright but tasteful art contrasting against rich brown and teal walls.
It feels like a tasteful home of a sophisticated owner who studied art and took time to acuminate such brilliant collection.
To sparkling clean menus and well articulated staff, who know the book inside out. Their knowledge of the menu is exceptional, I asked all my regular questions from halibut origin to what glass a cocktail is served in and our waiter didn’t even blink.
Service is polished from start to finish here. Every course arrives at the right moment, plates vanish effortlessly and our glasses never sit empty.
Having completed many mystery dines, I’d award the service full marks without hesitation. Such consistency is remarkably rare.
Now the dishes, Kanishka is best understood not simply as another high-end Indian restaurant but as a restaurant that explores the cuisines of India’s lesser-known northeastern frontier while also embracing contemporary British fine dining techniques.
And it certainly feels that way from the menu, with the chicken tikka pie and lotus kebab leading the way.
The pie is one of Atul’s signatures, puff perfectly dome shaped pastry, cumin and black sesame seeds and a tangy berry chutney.
The filling is a harmony of tender, delicately spiced chicken and a rich, creamy masala sauce, with just enough smokiness from the tandoor for depth.
Meanwhile, the lotus kebabs arrive generously sized, round-shaped bites of chopped lotus root, potato and spices, paired with a tangy pomegranate yoghurt that adds a refreshing contrast.
A much needed contrast I must add because the kebabs are level 4 spice, which is about a maximum I can handle, they’re rather nicely warming.
They have a delicate earthy flavour and feel quite meaty especially for a vegetarian dish.
For mains we do a bit of fusion my guest orders a Purani Dilli Ka chicken, a timeless classic of Old Delhi.
Presented in a gleaming oval stainless-steel dish with brass handles, the buttery tomato sauce releases an intoxicating aroma of layered spices. Even before the first taste, you sense the hours of careful preparation behind it.
Alongside fluffy saffron rice comes a Peshawari naan that ranks among the best we’ve tried— moist, pillowy and buttery with a gentle hint of coconut, it strikes a perfect balance.
Portions here are sizable, yet the curry disappears in no time, with my guest happily mopping up every last drop with the remaining naan.
My main comes from the British forests, it’s a fallow venison, served along side wild pulao and asparagus. Perfectly tender and medium rare inside it’s a dark rich meat, gently dipped in juniper garam masala.
I doubt I could have chosen a dish that better captures the meeting of Britain and India.
But the story doesn’t end there, seasonal asparagus and morels accompany the venison, adding another layer of elegance. The morels are a particular highlight for me, they’re not something you often encounter on the UK menus.
With their peculiar wrinkled caps, I just love them and such a delight to eat, yet I never go mushroom picking for them. The season has just finished though, it was March to May.
There is a lot to take in—both on the plate and on the page. But don’t simply take my word for it, there are plenty of reasons to visit Kanishka.
Led by Atul Kochhar, the first Indian chef to receive a Michelin star, the restaurant has been bringing its distinctive approach since opening in 2019.
The British – Indian fusion touched everything from Atul’s Passion Fruit Martini with tamarind chutney or as I describe it caramelised lemonade to chilli infused baked Alaska.
Kanishka by Atul Kochhar, 17-19 Maddox St, London W1S 2QH