Fresh, vibrant and flavourful: Luisa finds HG to be her new go-to Mediterranean food stop in Soho
What happens when three French, Danish and American strangers travelling the world, with nothing in common apart from a love of good honest food, happen to meet in Spain? Ben, Rasmus and Chris bonded over drinks (no doubt!) and on one main idea, to create ethically sourced food that’s vibrant, nourishing and real.
Then they discovered that one had cooked in Michelin-star kitchens, the other had waited tables and the third had built a business. Not finding a place where food felt real, fast, delicious and easily available, they decided to start one themselves. And HG (Honest Greens) happened. The original HG opened in Barcelona, soon followed by other branches in Spain and then Portugal and now in London’s Soho.
Ingredients were sourced from ethical growers, ideas came from top chefs and they drew inspiration from the most exciting kitchens in the Med and beyond. I tasted the results in the new HG Soho.
The summer menu is a riot of colours and flavours to match. Some dishes are described as plant-forward as vegetables abound. I loved Ajoblanco con tomates – heritage tomatoes dressed with a sauce based on the traditional Extremadura almond and garlic cold soup, which also happens to be one of my favourite summer soups; Boniato cakes – a traditional Spanish pastry but made with crushed beans; and the best Sweet Potato Fries I have ever tasted.
I liked the fresh summer twist of the Garden Bowls and Market Plates, with delicious Stracciatella Bowl, Pollo (chicken) Piri Piri and Tuna Tataki con Aji Amarillo – a vibrant fusion of lightly seared, Japanese-style tuna and a fruity, spicy Peruvian yellow pepper sauce. Many bowls combine fruit with vegetables and grains, to lift flavours whilst adding extra vitamins and fibre. It’s all natural, no processing, no preservatives, nothing unnecessary is added, I could really bite into real food. A big thing is made of olive oil, the only oil used for everything, it reigns supreme in the kitchen and on the table. A lovely menu, and at around £9.95 to £11.95, these dishes are super pocket friendly too.
I didn’t really want to share but I had to. Thank goodness extra sides arrived, a morish House Hummus with Pistachio, Greek Rice, Peaches with Labneh and Street Corn, all with thefresh taste of the Med.
I resolved not to touch desserts, but many came in bite sizes, and they were such a healthy, small sin – how could I say no? Yummy Raw Maca Coconut Bar, Oange, Matcha & Cocoa Protein Ball and Miso Koji Apple Pie were hard to resist.
Among the sea of Kombucha, cold pressed juices, shots (spirulina or ginger), infused and purified water with free refills, there are craft beers and a short, sharp wine list, offering natural, organic wines. The wines are all Spanish and come by the glass or bottle. I particularly liked the delicious and refreshing Le Naturel Blanco (£8.95/medium glass), a Garnacha Blanca from the Navarra region, with great acidity, no added sulphites and a perfect summer sipper which would pair well with all types of food.
The ethos of ‘everything natural’ extends to the interiors, which recreates a forest environment with modern touches, with hanging greenery juxtaposed with striking light fittings. Even the beautifully imperfect wooden furniture is handcrafted by a team of artisan in Spain and sustainably made, with each wooden table, woven stool and clay cup built to last. There are two floors, the main dining room is downstairs, whilst the upstairs features a coffee corner known as HG Beans, where baristas serve up organic single origin coffees, and an informal, quick-eat and take away area.
And lastly, I came for the food but found myself staying longer than planned because the music was so good. I usually don’t like loud music in restaurants, but like the food, the music here is ace too. It changes with the mood of the day, shifting naturally from ambient to energetic, but never overpowering. I liked that.
Look out for a new branch opening soon in Victoria, and I will be going for both the food and the music.
Hg Soho, 21 St Anne’s Court, London W1F 0BJ
https://www.instagram.com/hg.london
hg.london (@hg.london) | TikTok
Luisa Welch is a freelance writer and a member of the Circle of Wine Writers