Canary Wharf has just welcomed a new addition to its restaurant scene: ISSO – Prawn Crazy. But unlike many of the restaurants here, Isso isn’t part of a large group.
Quite the opposite. It has travelled all the way from Colombo, where the concept has already gained popularity.
ISSO has a unique concept and as the name suggests, it’s all about prawns. They come directly from farmers and fishermen in Sri Lanka, and the menu keeps things refreshingly straightforward.
You start by choosing your shrimp — wild or farmed, clearly marked on the menu. No need to quiz the waiter, only for them to disappear into the kitchen to check with the chef. Everything is clear from the start.
Then comes the fun part: choosing the cooking style, followed by your side. But first let’s explore the starters.
The mutton rolls come highly recommended. Two breaded crepes are packed with creamy potato and generous chunks of mutton, with just the right amount of spice.
A popular Sri Lankan short eat, they’re served with local chilli ketchup, though I don’t think they need it. There’s already plenty of flavour, with a gentle curry leaf note coming through the spices.
I’m also surprised by the size. The rolls looked much smaller in the Google Maps photos, so I was expecting more of a snack.
Moving on to the seafood, which is naturally more my kind of dish, the coconut shrimp stand out. The coconut flakes really showcase the toasty flavour and lovely crunch, while underneath, the juicy prawns provide a delicious contrast.
Paired with a savoury date and tamarind dip, the dish brings a gentle tang and deeper sweetness that works beautifully with the prawns.
ISSO isn’t just about the prawns though. There’s also a great bar, where cocktail magician Rodrigo creates impressive drinks that bring together the ingredients and spirits of Sri Lanka.
Take the Arrack Sour, a silky, almost clarified feel of a milk punch. It’s made with Ceylon Arrack, a Sri Lankan spirit distilled from naturally fermented coconut flower sap, along with Kithul treacle, the sap collected from the flowers of the kithul or fishtail palm tree.
It’s almost a culinary and biology lesson at the same time, you find yourself wondering what exactly you’re drinking, then looking up the ingredients as you go.
The lemon juice gives it a light freshness, while the Arrack and Kithul bring a delicate and floral depth, with a clean finish.
The cocktail pairs beautifully with the colossal freshwater prawn, served as a single because, well, this is one beast of a prawn. It barely fits on the plate, its long, spiked claws casually resting over the edge.
Also known as butterhead for their chunky head, they’re raised in rivers and reservoirs and prized for their meaty flesh.
I pick the kiri hothi curry to pair with it. The prawn comes split open and nestled into the sauce, allowing the creamy coconut curry to soak into the meat.
It’s a golden, turmeric-infused curry with fenugreek and lime — creamy, aromatic and wonderfully mild, making it perfect for people like me, whose chilli tolerance is almost zero.
For comparison, the other main is the wild, sea-caught flower prawns. Medium-sized, delicate center and a subtle sweetness, they come with a Hot Butter glaze, sweet, buttery and fiery, with considerably more heat than the kiri hothi.
Both mains leave plenty of sauce for the flaky parotta to mop up and enjoy. For a more classic accompaniment, the curry leaf and garlic fried rice works beautifully with both — adding a lovely aroma to the creamy Kiri Hothi curry and balancing the fiery glaze of the wild-caught prawns.
Whatever food and sauce pairing you go for, you can’t go wrong. Each dish is so unique and thoughtfully prepared that there’s plenty more I want to try. And I can’t wait to go back, perhaps as soon as this week.
There’s even more reason to return, as ISSO has teamed up with Zephyr Ceylon, one of Sri Lanka’s best-known bars, recognised by Condé Nast Traveller.
For two special nights, the Sri Lankan bar brings its signature South Coast spirit to ISSO – Prawn Crazy. On 20 and 22 August, guests can enjoy five exclusive cocktails created by the Zephyr team, alongside ISSO’s menu of Sri Lankan dishes.
So if you’ve been looking for an excuse to discover ISSO, this might just be it.
ISSO – Prawn Crazy, 25 Cabot Sq, Canary Wharf Estate, London E14 4QA
prawncrazy.co.uk