The pale hinoki wood, sliding screens and pared-back interiors are quintessentially Japanese, setting the tone for Roketsu and its lunch menu.
People grabbing a sandwich from a café or queuing up for a salad is such a familiar lunchtime scene in London.
But I’ve always had a simple rule when it comes to dishes: if it’s something I can easily make at home, I’d rather make it myself.
Sushi is another story. Boiling rice, whipping out my bamboo rolling mat and laying out sheets of nori isn’t something I want to be fussing over during a short lunch break.
Although, I do think that if one can perfect the art of sushi rolling and find a reliable source of fresh fish, sushi makes for a great lunch.
Or one can go to Roketsu, an omakase-style Mayfair restaurant, which now offers lunch menu for diners to enjoy during their afternoon break.
The sets start at £25, which is rather reasonable for a Mayfair location.
The lunch menu is served in a speedy yet stylish, counter-style setting, making it perfect for solo diners. And I’m here to put it to the test. But unlike the office workers around me, I don’t have a desk to return to — I have a flight to catch.
So the pressure is on for a prompt, smooth service. And as I’m not heading back to the office, skipping the sake just wouldn’t feel right. We’re in a Japanese establishment after all.
So we start with Taiyo Shuzo Daiginjo Echigo-ryu sake, smooth and light with a distinct banana and candy-like aroma or even a bubble-gum finish.
Made with locally produced Takane Nishiki rice polished to 50%, it’s a delicate, dry style of Daiginjo. To pair with it, the sushi set is the first dish that catches my attention.
The negiri fish selection changes depending on the season and, more importantly, what the sea has brought in — or what has made its way to Mayfair, to be exact.
It’s a collection of seven nigiri soy sauce brushed in front of us as the tradition states , six maki, miso soup and pickles at £39.
My favourite highlights from the nigiri selection include fatty tuna, sweet prawn, scallop, red bream and uni (sea urchin) interestingly sourced from the clean waters of Iceland.
Despite being a keen lover of all things ocean, uni with its iodine-rich flavour and custard-like texture has never really been my thing.
I know people who are absolutely obsessed with it, though, and they would love this one.
It arrives as a generously loaded gunkan, with far more topping than rice. As I pick it up with my chopsticks, I can feel the weight of the uni sitting on top.
It tastes incredibly fresh, as if the sea urchin has just been collected from the sea rocks and opened right in front of us.
Meanwhile the maki today is made with ume, or Japanese plum, and we’re told an interesting piece of history by the restaurant manager.
In Japan there’s a long history of growing fruit trees in people’s gardens as a practical food source, originating during times of scarcity.
Ume in particular, has been part of Japanese gardens and cuisine for centuries. The fruit is extremely sour when eaten raw, so it’s traditionally preserved, both extending the shelf life and mellowing its sharpness.
That same tang comes through in our maki. The rice has a gentle acidity and vinegary bite from the ume, adding a note that is difficult to mistake for anything else.
The hot section shouldn’t be missed here, prawn tempura is particularly good. The bubbled coating forms like spots on a giraffe — large, uneven and almost purposeful.
It’s crisp and incredibly light. The tempura vanishes off the plate before it even has a chance to properly cool down.
Dessert is another reason to come to Roketsu. The matcha Basque cheesecake is a dish rapidly gaining popularity. It’s beautifully paired with a strawberry compote.
The only downside the portion is on the smaller side, but that feels rather in keeping with the Japanese approach to serving more modest portions.
Roketsu is definitely one to have on your radar for lunch. The sets offer a more accessible way to experience the restaurant, and perhaps most importantly, a chance to get a taste of what the considerably pricier dinner menu has to offer.
Roketsu, 12 New Quebec St, London W1H 7RW