Inspired by the Victorian classics, Chop House Paternoster celebrates traditional British dishes with a contemporary touch.

Part of a family of four chophouses dotted around the city, the Chop House Paternoster champions seasonal British produce, with Chef Mike Reid reimagining forgotten classics and bringing a few new “old” recipes to the table.

We start with a trio of oysters, each prepared differently. The classic, dressed with onion vinaigrette, is always a winner for me, elevated here with a bright green emulsion that adds a fresh, citrusy lift.

The deep-fried version, topped with corn, is an interesting alternative, particularly popular with those at the table who prefer their seafood cooked. Encased in a crisp, cod-style batter, the oyster retains its delicate centre and is served beautifully warm.

Next comes a crab salad on toast from the starters, an interesting dish that features milk bread. Hugely popular bakery item in Asia that now overspills to the rest of the culinary world.

Chef Mike tells us he had fun experimenting with the baking process to perfect its light, airy consistency.

Achieved through cold fermentation and a very high hydration, milk bread is recognisable by its pale, milky-white interior.

The slice is gently toasted on both sides, creating a delicate crust while retaining that wonderfully soft, bouncy texture inside. It’s generously topped with crab and a hollandaise-style dressing to complete the dish.

For me, though, the star of the show is one of Britain’s most iconic comfort dishes: suet pudding. It’s my first time trying it, which might explain the excitement, but it’s also a dish I’d happily order again.

There’s something particularly satisfying about discovering a traditional dish for the first time and finding that it lives up to the anticipation.

Made with venison mince, the pudding benefits from the richness of suet, which brings moisture and indulgence to the naturally lean meat, which is needed for venison.

The venison has been particularly lean and a little dry this year because of the heatwaves.

Its pale exterior might initially give the impression of being undercooked, but suet puddings are steamed rather than baked, resulting in a soft, moist texture rather than a golden crust.

The texture surprises me. It’s not nearly as fatty as I’d imagined and, oddly enough, brings back a childhood memory of discovering little pockets of softer puff pastry at the bottom of a pie.

I loved those bits, almost treating it as a game to find them. There’s something wonderfully nostalgic about that familiar softness, even if the comparison doesn’t quite do the dish justice.

The pudding comes topped with an oyster vinaigrette, providing a welcome hit of acidity that cuts through the richness before you dive into the savoury centre of the pudding.

The next main is a 48-hour sticky toffee short rib, and judging by the reactions around the table, it’s a firm favourite.

It’s certainly a spectacle, with the chef setting it alight before serving. The tableside theatrics are more than just for show, adding a beautiful smoky finish to the dish.

As the name suggests, the sauce brings deep caramel notes with just a hint of sweetness. Beneath a scattering of crumbs and halved walnuts lies exceptionally tender beef that falls effortlessly from the bone.

Impressive in both flavour and presentation, it’s easy to see why this dish wins over the table.

Personally, though, the suet pudding remains the more memorable of the two, perhaps because it was my first time trying it or because it’s only on the menu until the end of the month.

To finish, we’re treated to Mike’s childhood favourite: Bakewell tart. The menu is clearly shaped by memories of his grandmother’s cooking, with forgotten British classics revived through a more contemporary lens.

The tart is soft, with lovely marzipan notes and a delicate topping of crisp almond flakes.

The rum-soaked cherries bring a boozy richness, with a bright cherry flavour that stands out against the soft almond filling nicely.

It’s the suet pudding that stays with me most, both for being a first-time discovery and for its unexpected reminder of childhood.

Chef Mike Reid brings a sense of personal history to the table, reminding us that sometimes the most memorable dishes are the ones that connect us to the past.

Paternoster Chop House & Tavern, 35 Old Bailey, London EC4M 7AU