Luisa Welch rediscovers an Italian treasure, one that doesn’t follow the ‘herd’

The name Pecorino is linked to sheep (pecora in Italian), because the grapes ripen during the period when sheep were traditionally moved between grazing areas, making grapes a readily available food source. Whilst it shares its name with the famous ewe’s milk cheese Pecorino, there’s no direct relationship between the two, other than the etymology. 

Abruzzo and Le Marche, both in central Italy, have long battled over the origins of Pecorino, and it is difficult to say where it was first discovered. The grape’s DNA showed altitude, and pointed to Arquata del Tronto, a municipality in Le Marche region, a unique place within Europe as it’s the only one to fall within two natural parks at an altitude of almost 800 metres.  It is possible that the two regions shared the first clone, found in Le Marche, but the first wine was bottled in Abruzzo. 

Its low productivity initially limited wine production, and it was often used as a blending grape to add structure to other wines. But in recent years, Pecorino has experienced a resurgence as winemakers in Abruzzo have focused on producing high-quality wines from this grape. 

Enter Cantina Tollo, Abruzzo’s foremost producer of quality Pecorino, which attained the DOCG – the highest recognition for quality wines – in 2019. Tollo is much more than a winery. It is the name of a small village close to the Adriatic Sea from which the winery takes its name, providing jobs for many locals.

Since 1960, it has played an important role in the local economy, helping to bring around a radical change in grape growing and wine making techniques, raising Pecorino to new heights. From the 6,000 bottles a year originally produced, now Pecorino reaches 18m bottles per year and the grape’s cultivation has doubled to 2,500ha. Operating like a cooperative, Cantina Tollo provides work for 625 associated vine growers supporting over 200 families. 

Over the years the winery has grown and from the original winery four different companies have developed: Cantina Tollo, Feudo Antico, Auramadre and Borgovenza. Their vineyards now stretch in Abruzzo and nearby Molise and Puglia, promoting local varieties and championing organic viticulture. 

Abruzzo, known as the ‘greenest region in Europe’ with half of its surface covered by national parks and protected nature reserves, is ideal for growing vines organically and Cantina Tollo pioneered organic wine back in the 80’s, way before it became a trend.

The hilly sites of the vineyards allow for natural ventilation and the reduction of spraying, along with the use of ambient yeasts. The winery is also fully sustainable and a new vegan line is being added to the winery. 

Cantina Tollo’s head winemaker Riccardo Brighigna says: ‘Pecorino develops aromatic characters which define the ‘style’. Grapes grown at altitude are herbal and fruity, with notes of lavender sage, mint, but also pear and apple. Grapes grown at lower altitudes are richer in fruity flavours’.  He continues: ‘The texture is clean, and these wines pair well with food, but can also age gracefully for a few years’. 

The 2024 vintage was exceptional and the best selling Pecorino Peco Terre D’Abruzzo IGP is fresh and fruity, with notes of peach, citrus and tropical hints, and a finish of aromatic herbs and elegant floral notes. It retails at around £20. 

At the other end of the spectrum is Pecorino Tullum DOCG Organic Spontaneous Fermentation.  This is the smallest DOCG in Italy and it’s the main focus of Feudo Antico, one of the four wineries within Tollo.

It matures on fine lees for six months before bottling developing aromas of pear and golden apple, with nuances of sage and lavender and a long aromatic mouthfeel. It has won the coveted ‘Tre Bicchieri’ (the ‘Michelin Guide’ of Italian Wines) for seven years in a row and is imported in the UK by Alliance Wines  alliancewine.com. 

Also available in the UK is Colle Cavalieri Pecorino Terre D’Abruzzo IPG, a fresh and fruity wine, elegant and delicate, with notes of exotic fruit. 

Rare and special is Casadonna Pecorino Terre Aquilane IPG – this is extreme winemaking in very limited exclusive editions. Grapes are grown in L’Aquila province, the wine benefits from spontaneous fermentation from a natural yeast, and it is bottled without filtration or clarification. It cannot be made every year due to spring frosts in the area, and only 3,000 bottles of the 2022 vintage were made. Its fresh and saline acidity, with strong minerality and a long aromatic persistence is haunting and not easily forgotten. 

Tollo’s Pecorino Spumante Brut is a welcome surprise, a fresh and lively sparkling wine with good structure, citrus and floral notes, green herbs and toasted bread. Refreshing and delicious. 

Cantina Tollo exports to over 46 countries worldwide. In the UK, their wines are available through Eurowines.co.uk and through specialist retailer cruworldwine.com.

Cantina Tollo has won many awards, including Best Italian Cooperative at the Berliner Wine Trophy 2025for the seventh consecutive year; Winery of the Year at China Wine Competition; Producer of the Year at Mundus Vini, among many others. www.cantinatollo.it