For the past two years, Aqua Shard has been working alongside Bethnal Green Fish Supplies Ltd, an East London fishmonger built on decades of trade knowledge and hands-on preparation.
Foodepedia was invited to sample and to learn more about the these two great companies working together.
Our evening begins with an introduction to the fish and as it should be, all the fish is whole, with head, tail and all its glory. Some of the diners even see a whole cod for the first time, and it’s a big fish for those who aren’t aware. They can grow up to two metres long.
It’s all about what’s in season right now and using every part of the fish, the BG Fish Supplies check each fish carefully to ensure it’s of the standard, fillet and send off to the restaurant.
The fish carcases are then bought by another company who makes use of them. But the nose-to-tail or gill-to-fin work to be exact doesn’t stop there, our spiced aubergine & brown crab pastilla is made with broth from brown crab shells, which is an off product.
And one of the starters grilled glazed octopus comes from Cornwall also has a separate story to tell. We are told the warmer water has been bringing in quite a population of octopuses to the Cornish waters.
Of course the sneaky and incredibly intelligent 8 legged creatures get into the crab traps and eat all the crabs by the time fishermen get the traps out. So as an alternative starter to the crab the octopuses are now on the menu.
Paired with cod emulsion, tomato and fennel salsa. The octopus is prepared tender with sweet glaze and paired with colourful cherry tomatoes.
Another starter, which should not be missed is a cured Scottish gurnard, one of my personal favourites going fin to fin with John Dory. It’s a white flesh fish, with lovely flake and bouncy texture, resembling a monkfish ever so slightly.
Aqua Shard‘s Executive Chef Mark Abbott does a little demonstration of how it’s prepared before we try it and his secret is vanilla pods in the salt, which give that sweet aroma to the fish.
The slice is served on a purple potato bed, cucumber salad and burnt lemon gel. Watercress dressing seals the deal nicely here adding a refreshing twist.
Going a bit off topic, I was thrilled to see purple potatoes on the menu, they’re my favourite to grow in the garden.
Rich in anthocyanin they retain their purple colour when cooked and substitute a regular white potato, so there is no excuse really for not growing them.
Flavour wise depending on the variety but this particular one is earthy and nutty pretty much like a charlotte potato but a bit less sweet. Do try them for yourself here on the menu before giving them a go in the garden.
Like the octopus our main also comes from Cornwall, from Newlyn to be exact. It’s a white fillet of John Dory stuffed with St George mushrooms puree – a spring time delicacy.
While I’m usually sceptical of mushroom and fish combination this adds an interesting touch to the subtle flavours of John Dory. The fish comes paired with broccoli puree and pickled shallots, a well put together dish.
If you find white fish too mild or lacking flavour this will change your perspective, there is plenty of flavours on the plate. And it goes beautifully with Les Chanoines from Chablis.
Last but not least the dessert should not be missed here, Baked Alaska is on the menu for tonight’s dessert.
With the current season and the heat it’s the dish to have, refreshing and cooling inside, with seasonal rhubarb and vanilla parfait.
The parfait is topped with pickled rhubarb and ginger poached compote and of course the signature burnt meringue.
While I recognise it’s a dessert, it’s only ever so slightly sweeten making me believe it’s an innocent light calorie sorbet.
Such dessert calls for a wine pairing, an Italian Moscato d’Asti from Tenuta Olim Bauda, in Piedmont. It’s a hay dense wine with apricot, peach and fresh grape on the palate, sweet but fresh.
Whether one loves fish or meat, Aqua Shard is definitely worth a trip for its stunning views, attentive service, and carefully curated dishes. Meanwhile, BG Fish Supplies remains open for online orders and walk-in customers alike, should one wish to see or cook cod in its full glory rather than simply on a fish and chips plate.
Aqua Shard, Level 31, The Shard, 31 St Thomas St, London SE1 9RY
BG Fish Supplies Ltd, Arch 95 Tent St, London E1 5DZ