Locatelli at The National Gallery now has a menu inspired by the painter Francisco de Zurbarán to accompany the first major UK exhibition of this Spanish master
Deep in the bowels of the Sainsbury Wing, crucified Christs glow out of pitch black backgrounds, a giant head dwarfs the visitors gazing at it and a sheep has fleece so realistic you want to bury your hands in up to the wrists.
Nearly fifty paintings trace Zurbarán’s career across four decades. One of the leading painters of 17th-century Spain, his paintings make remarkable use of chiaroscuro, light and shadow, and include life-size depictions of saints, enormous altarpieces and stunning still lifes.
As you move from room to room, marveling at his incredible way of painting textures and fabrics as well as skin tones, the light seems to come out of the paintings as if backlit.
Afterwards, upstairs, somewhat humbled, you can renew the experience with food.
Locatelli’s special menu offers a series of dishes that draw on seasonal Italian produce and Giorgio’s own picks from the exhibition. After eating lots of olives and drinking exhibition inspired spritzes, it was time to choose my work of art
Orzotto, Ragu’ al Nero di Seppia, Salsa al Prezzemolo Barley risotto, black ink cuttlefish ragout, parsley sauce paired with “The Shadow of the Baroque”
Pollo al Limone, Pure’ di Patate, Zucchine Grigliata Lemon chicken, mashed potato, grilled courgettes, chicken jus paired with “Seville: Hub of the Global Trade”
Orecchiette, Asparagi, Piselli, Limone, Olio Aromatizzato alle Erbe Orecchiette pasta, asparagus, peas, lemon, herb-infused oil paired with “The Fabric of Saints”
I went for the risotto, inky black barley with luminous parsley sauce shining out. Barley is more robust than rice, easier for a kitchen to handle on demand. Its chewy nature is more pleasing than the chalkiness of Arborio.
The cuttlefish was perfect, some bounce but not too much, and the sauce was beautifully rich with saline hints of the sea. A glass of my favourite Italian wine – Pecorino – was all the extra colour needed.
Dessert is also inspired Cassata Siciliana Sweet ricotta mousse, chocolate chips, pistachio, candied fruits paired with “Real and Imagined”
An incredibly sweet dish, and while I am not usually a ‘sweet’ person this was gorgeous and decadent and apparently a nod to ‘the global trade of the era, bringing together sugar, cocoa, and nuts in a display of “deep emotional power” and artistic flair’. I’ll not argue with that.
The paintings are all masterpieces, Locatelli’s menu is masterly. Once you go black, you’ll never go back.
The Zurbarán menu will be available from 2nd to 31st May at Locatelli at the National Gallery.
Dishes are available on the à la carte menu or as part of a set menu (Two courses £25, three courses £31 – available daily from 3:00pm to 4:30pm)
Zurbarán Exhibition dates: 2 May – 23 August
Service: Sunday to Thursday 11:30am – 5:45pm; Friday 11:30am – 10:15pm; Saturday 11:30am – 8:15pm
Location: Locatelli at the National Gallery, Sainsbury Wing
Make a reservation HERE