Customisable pizzas, fluffy crusts and spritz, the streets of Covent Garden keep a secret, an Italian secret.
There are two types of pizza lovers: fans of Roman – thin crisp dough, and Neapolitan slowly fermented and proofed resulting in soft airy dough.
I belong to the second group, which means I’m no stranger to Naples province and I’ve developed a certain expectation of a pizza.
While London has many spots that claim to make the perfect Neapolitan classic, too many seem to miss the balance – sourness sits in the tomato sauce instead of the dough, with crust that is either a bit dry or left soggy and undercooked in the middle.
Perhaps it’s our London harsh water that clashes with the delicate Italian flour, the rainy air or something else but the struggle is real.
Having said that I never say no to trying out a new Neapolitan pizzeria in London. And so we find ourselves in Crust Bros in Covent Garden, one of three locations.
It’s casual, busy and fast paced as all good pizzerias should be. The turnover is quick and the stars of the show are pizzas of course, so not many people go for starters.
But if you were so inclined, the nocellara olives are very good, balanced and fresh, the skin still has that crunch to it and inside it’s not over marinated.
For starters if you can handle more carbs, there are garlic bread and bruschetta, as well as salads for a lighter option.
If not, mozzarella pearls on skewers with fresh and sun-dried tomatoes are a fun appetiser to enjoy while you wait.
So is burrata with roughly chopped tomatoes. The stracciatella is quite grainy inside, not necessarily a bad thing, just different, a bit like cottage cheese but creamier and with more flavour to it.
I should have asked if they make it inhouse. One of the selling points of Crust Bros are customisable pizzas, you pick the base, sauce and toppings.
But you can also skip that and go right to the predesigned pizzas.
As mentioned earlier I’m cautious of overly sour tomato bases in fact I’ve been so traumatised over the years by the acidity I now avoid them altogether.
So mine is Harlem Truffle with crema tartufaga base – essentially a minced mushroom base infused with truffle.
The dark mushroom base is topped with the usual pizza suspects – parmesan, mozzarella and a little bit different – sausage meat.
The truffle aroma is strong and the mushroom base makes for an unusual alternative, perfect for those who are allergic to tomatoes or want something distinct.
I see Harlem Truffle on many tables, but I have to admit it’s not quite my cup of tea.
I should actually have risked it and gone for a tomato base, because my guest’s pizza is marvellous, rich and delicately sweet with just a hint of sourness.
Hers goes under the name of Nonna’s Yard. A classic combo of tomato base with mozzarella, goats cheese, mushrooms and a bright pesto drizzle.
Also, caramelised onions but my guest swaps that for fresh rocket. The pizza is very good, plenty of toppings and the dough is just right. And as Crust Bros logo goes, we eat the crusts too.
Sadly, I guess you can’t have it all perfect, the strawberry gelato after is a bit of a let down, lacking the flavour while also being a tad bit watery.
But the tiramisu is good, well soaked savoiardi with cream layers, enough to share for two.
For drinks, this being a casual pizzeria the drinks menu is also just as casual, a handful of Italian and Spanish wines by the glass and bottles, alongside a short run of spritz and non alcoholic cocktails.
Having said that I spot a Piña Colada margarita on the menu, a marriage of my two favourite cocktails.
It has the spirit of a margarita, blended with coconut cream and pineapple and finished with a salt rim and lime. Why this isn’t already a mainstay on cocktail menus is hard to fathom.
To sum up, for all your pizza cravings Crust Bros deserves a high spot in the list, whether you are a Neapolitan pizza lover or even Roman.
They also do an excellent theatre menu for £20 with a starter and a main.
Crust Bros, Covent Garden, 29 Bedford St, London WC2E 8JF
www.crustbros.co.uk