As a restaurant reviewer, the first thing that comes to mind when I think of Naples is pizza.
Thin in the middle with bouncy, soft puffed sides. The crust has to be elastic with some air bubbles inside and a slightly sourdough taste to it.
Sounds easy enough, right? Well somehow I struggle to find a pizza that will tick all the boxes here in London. But when I learnt what goes into making a proper Naples style pizza, I started to realise the challenge.
Pizza originated in Naples as a working class dish with on-the-go in slices, but it didn’t really gain popularity until 1940s when migrating Italians brought it to America.
There of course the traditional Neapolitan pizza was greatly modified to suit the local taste.Which version is best is perhaps a source of debate.
However the art of making a traditional Neapolitan pizza is so recognised it’s even included in the UNESCO’s list of intangible cultural heritage.
The criteria is strict; from only using San Marzano or del Piennolo del Vesuvio tomatoes from the volcanic plains in Vesuvius, to mozzarella di bufala campana or fior di latte di Agerola.
As for the dough it has to contain a specific variety of wheat with natural Neapolitan yeast or brewer’s yeast added.
So if all those ingredients are brought here to London, can the Neapolitan style pizza be successfully made in the rainy capital?
Today I’m reviewing Santa Maria, established by two Napolitanos Angelo and Pasquale, in 2010 in Ealing since then the pizzeria has spread its roots throughout London.
We’re in their Islington restaurant to try the limited edition lobster pizza in celebration of National Pizza Day, as well as the menu in general. We are first to arrive at 5:30 but it fills up quickly with guests who reserved and walk ins.
The menu is humble and simple, just like a pizzeria in Naples, a few bruschettas, focaccias, burrata dishes with different toppings such as nduja, meatballs and aubergine parmegiana and pizzas, of course.
I order the highly recommended, by our lovely waitress, starter – aubergine parmigiana, and have no regrets, it’s absolutely delicious.
It has layers of perfectly prepared tender aubergine and plenty of cheese that stretches, creating satisfying cheese pulls and revealing tasty tomato sauce under.
I stress tasty here because with tomatoes in the UK they can often be sour or acidic.
The aubergine parmegiana is a good portion too, which is slightly concerning since we still have pizzas and dessert to try. But it’s too nice to be left behind. It comes with homemade bread too, made on premises by Santa Maria’s chefs.
Fragrant and moist with a good crust around it, which is also too tasty not to be eaten, so that definitely comes away with us to enjoy with breakfast next day.
The pizza choice is wide to suit all taste buds, they also use some local ingredients such as Yorkshire sausage, which I’m intrigued to try.
Hence, my pizza for tonight is Sant’Anna with an additional topping of Yorkshire sausage and truffle cream for crust dip. Dips are available as an add on.
On the eye it looks very much like the pizzas I’ve had in Naples, soft thin dough with high edges and slightly charcoaled bubbles.
The edges are also bouncy, I press my thumb on the raised crust and it lifts back up quickly.
There is a balanced proportion of toppings with cotto ham, mozzarella fiordilatte, artichokes, black olives dotted around and extra shaving of parmesan.
Plus the Yorkshire sausage of course, it has a lovely meaty texture to it and a touch of fennel. The tomato sauce is also spot on, not sour, slightly sweet with a well-rounded ripe tomato flavour.
My guests is also pleased with her lobster pizza, prepared in a similar way to mine it’s topped with lobster pieces and prawns.
Today we’re not having alcohol, but I still glance at the drinks menu. It’s a classic choice of spritz and Italian wines at prices that don’t break the bank. Instead I’m trying their orange Santa Maria lemonade, which is rather good, natural, zesty and fresh.
For desserts it’s a perfectly prepared tiramisu and Pan di Stelle, layers of mascarpone and nutella mousse topped with Pan di Stelle (Italian chocolate and hazentun biscuit).
For anyone who finds chocolate desserts, well too chocolaty this is the one to have, it’s chocolate rich but with a good creamy and hazelnut to balance.
In conclusion, Santa Maria is a casual diner, great for those pizza craving moments. And it doesn’t fall far from the Neapolitan pizzas, the tomato sauce is spot on and the base is the perfect it’s just missing a tad bit of sourdough flavour to it.
Santa Maria Islington, 189 Upper St, London N1 1RQ