The Chef’s Table, 49 Long Street, Tetbury, Gloucestershire, 01666 504466

The proprietors of the guest house at which we were staying having discovered our interest in food, suggested that The Chefs Table in Tetbury was well worth a visit, and we were pleased that they did. Situated above a grocery store/delicatessen of the same name, you enter the restaurant through the shop. The restaurant itself is a small informal space with some five tables and a counter at which we sat, where you look onto the chefs at work – it almost feels like you are in the kitchen itself.

We chose starters of tart tatin of English onions with crispy bacon served with lightly dressed mixed leaves and the mixed charcuterie plate with baked brie. Both were excellent. The tart tatin had a good amount of sweet caramelised onion, which was well balanced by the crispy pancetta bacon, a lovely dish. The charcuterie delivered a good amount of tasty cold cuts, including: ham, chorizo, salami and more, the little ramekin of baked brie with the thinnest melba toast contrasted with the meats, served with dressed leaves and croutons, the dish worked very well together.

For mains we chose the deep fried chilli squid risotto, which was beautifully creamy yet with some bite, and had a good onion and delicate cheese flavour, topped off by lovely tender rings of squid that had been coated in a lightly chilli spiced breadcrumb, before being deep fried, and made a great contrast for the risotto. The chicken Kiev was a sizeable hunk of chicken, that in itself had great flavour: when cut into, the garlic butter flowed out providing an excellent sauce for the meat, accompanied by lovely creamy mashed potato, this was another lovely dish.

Although quite well fed by the end of the main, we had been watching the desserts being put together and any resolve we might have had not to have one evaporated. The vanilla panacotta with warn strawberries and raspberry ice cream was a lovely creamy soft set confection, well matched with the strawberries and fruity ice cream. The hot chocolate meringue soufflé with pistachio ice cream was another winner, the soufflé was amazingly light, moist and fluffy, yet it had a seriously intense chocolate flavour, paired with a good fresh tasting pistachio ice cream that balanced the dish well, and had a palate cleansing effect between mouthfuls of the divinely chocolate intensity of the soufflé. Both dishes were served with a glass of caramel foam that added another dimension from its bitter sweetness. Each were seriously great dishes.

We had a fresh fruity white and a good soft red with our meal each reasonably priced at about £14 per bottle. Service was friendly and efficient and the restaurant has a good comfortable feel. It is well worth going out of your way to find, certainly an excellent place to eat, and if offered a place at the counter, take it – it was great watching the chefs at work. This is certainly a destination restaurant if you are in the Cotswolds. You can find details about the Chef’s Table at www.thechefstable.co.uk – check it out.