Gamay is of course THE grape of the Beaujolais region, but Chardonnay should not forgotten. Around two million bottles of Beaujolais Blanc are produced from it a year, and so Nick went to meet some of the top winemakers over a dinner in Dalston.
Back in the 80s I remember Beaujolais Nouveau day well and it was not a wine day for connoisseurs. We would pile into a Covent Garden wine bar at lunchtime and get stupendously drunk before either returning to the office and sleeping it off, or keeping on drinking and finally going roaring off into the night.
Of course this did not ultimately do Beaujolais any good, as demand for the ‘New’ outpaced supply and production of regular Beaujolais went down until finally there was backlash in the late 1990s.
Beaujolais was seen as ‘not cool’ and producers were holding onto a surplus they could not sell at any price. Recent years though have seen a resurgence and amongst the regions revivified wines is Beaujolais Blanc.
Produced in the north of the region, and to the southwest of Villefranche-sur-Saône, the wine is made exclusively from the Chardonnay grape, the most widely planted white grape worldwide. Chardonnay now accounts for 2% of the grapes grown in the region and is growing fast as more people discover the excellence of Beaujolais Blanc.
This is a unique wine to take round to friends as a talking point ‘White Beaujolais? Surely not?’ , one that will seriously impress them with your eclectic taste.
We settled down for a tasting at Brilliant Corners, an achingly cool modern Japanese izakaya restaurant in even cooler Dalston, to meet some winemakers who’d come over laden with bottles, and try their wines with food.
Present were Sébastien Kargul From Château De Corcelles, Julien Révillon From Domaine Piron and Élodie Rousselot From Château Bellevue & Domaine De La Pirolette all hosted by the excellent expert Victoria Daskel who has a good breakdown of white Beaujolais here.
An evening of increasingly loud conversation resulted, let us never forget wine contains alcohol, with the winemakers taking it in turns to tell us all about their vineyards above the rising din. Victoria piloting the whole event with deep knowledge, as well as sharp taps on the wineglass to call us to order when necessary.
The Japanese food was superb and the white Beaujolais perfect with it. While all the wines had a similar tone, individual character shone through. As the glasses piled up, each carefully labelled to avoid confusion, it was possible to try each dish with around six wines. So revelations abounded and good-natured arguments broke out.
The evening was themed ‘The – side to Beaujolais’, wittily expressed in the vinyl LP that was sleeved expressly for occasion, and which we all carried home afterwards with heads spinning slightly. It had anan actual vinyl LP inside, but I suspect I may have been the only person with a spinnable turntable at home though.
It was an evening of surprises, one that made me thirsty to explore more of white Beaujolais even though it is not particularly easy to find in the UK.
Below you can see links to some importers, and research online should reveal some more places.
Perhaps it’s too late to make it a white Beaujolais Christmas, but the new year would be a good time to explore wine pastures new.
Wines tasted were
JACQUES DÉPAGNEUX – CUVÉE SYLVIE, BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES, 2023
J.M. Aujoux, founded in 1938, is a specialist in Beaujolais-Mâconnais wines and has gained recognition in the region as an owner, producer, and trader. In 1996, J.M. Aujoux acquired the renowned Jacques Dépagneux brand, which is now the flagship of its estates, thereby becoming the sole owner of the 2.6-hectare Viré-Clessé Clos du Chapitre vineyard.
CHÂTEAU BELLEVUE – PRINCESSE LIEVEN, BEAUJOLAIS BLANC, PIERRES DORÉES, 2023
This majestic estate was built in 1840 by industrialists from Lyon. The Château Bellevue vineyard spans 18 hectares of vines, primarily planted on the Morgon Cru. To preserve the unique identity and fully express each terroir, parcel-based vinification is conducted for the different climates. The winery is equipped with advanced equipment, allowing for meticulous work in the production of the wines.
DOMAINE DE LA PIROLETTE, BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES BLANC, 2023
Nestled in the heart of the small village of Saint-Amour, Domaine de la Pirolette is at the top of a hill, overlooking the church. The estate spans 15 hectares of carefully tended vineyards, with each of its most distinctive parcels—Le Carjot, La Poulette, and La Pirolette—vinified separately to honour the unique characteristics of their respective terroirs. In 2013,
the estate entered a new chapter in its history when it was proudly acquired by Grégory Barbet, his sisters, and their co-owners, marking the beginning of a new chapter for this renowned vineyard.
CHÂTEAU DE CORCELLES, BEAUJOLAIS BLANC, 2023
With nine centuries of history, Château de Corcelles is a historic estate in the Beaujolais region with a winemaking legacy that spans over 300 years. Located in the middle of the Beaujolais crus, Château de Corcelles enjoys a truly diverse landscape with the mountains on one side and the vast plain of the Saône on the other. This mosaic of terroirs hascemented the estate’s reputation as a flagship of Beaujolais.
UK IMPORTER: MATTHEW CLARK/BIBENDUM WINE | AVAILABLE AT THE FINE WINE COMPANY (2022), £17.65
DOMINIQUE PIRON, BEAUJOLAIS BLANC, 2021
The Piron family has been growing grapes in Morgon for 14 generations. To continue the family legacy, Dominique Piron began producing wine from their 10-hectare estate. In 1988, he founded Maison Piron to expand production by purchasing additional grapes. The estate is located at the heart of Morgon and produces 70K bottles per year distributed in 70 countries.
UK IMPORTERS: THE WINE SOCIETY, DIRECT WINES – LAITHWAITES, WAITROSE, FORTNUM & MASON | AVAILABLE AT LAITHWAITES, £17.50
FAMILLE DESCOMBE, BEAUJOLAIS BLANC, PIERRES DORÉES, 2022
Since 1905, the Descombe family has built a rich history in the heart of Beaujolais, near Mont Brouilly. Over five generations, each has played a role in growing the family business. Today, the fifth generation—represented by Marine, Kevin, and François—continues to lead with fresh energy and a forward-thinking vision, with a strong focus on sustainability and biodiversity. The family now cultivates over 80 hectares of vineyards across Beaujolais and Bourgogne.
AVAILABLE AT WICKHAMS, £19.50
CHÂTEAU DE PIERREUX, BEAUJOLAIS-VILLAGES BLANC, 2023
Established in the 13th century, the château has undergone multiple renovations, with its wine cellars dating back tothe 17th century. The estate spans 110 hectares of vineyards and has been fully managed according to sustainable practices since 2003.
COMPAGNIE BEAUJOLAISE, BEAUJOLAIS BLANC, 2022
La Compagnie Beaujolais showcases the full range of Beaujolais wines, representing all AOCs. Each wine is meticulously selected, with particular attention given to barrel ageing for the crus. These wines are exclusively available through on-trade establishments and wine merchants. The labels are designed to be modern and visually striking, appealing to a wide audience.