Lured by the promise of learning more about what is still, for many, a rather under the radar wine producing country, Nick fetched up at Pedro’s to meet Quinta da Lapa’s Export Director Miguel Cordeiro and taste four of his wines, along with some excellent food from Pedro’s wine bar.
The rumble of trains heading back and forth from London Bridge station threatened to occasionally drown out Miguel’s fascinating talk, but that’s what you get when you create a restaurant under the arches of a railway viaduct.
Inside, Pedro’s is gorgeous, everything a wine bar/ restaurant should be, lit warmly and softly, and with tables packed with people who are lucky to live in this increasingly trendy location. Maltby Street market is just around the corner, and many of the other arches are now home to all kinds of small businesses, many of them brewers.
Miguel has loaded tables with his sparkling wines and before we kick off proper, he pours Nana Brut Rose Reserve.
It’s a wine made from classic Portuguese grapes, 50% Touriga Nacional, 50% Argonês and it’s an immediate hit. Personally I can take or leave Champagne and I’m not fond of the artificial bubbles of Prosecco, although there are some very good ones about. As to Cava, well that’s fine, but this wine is better,
Obviously it’s pink. Not a nasty pink but more of a bashful glow. Lots of berries on the nose and a really refreshing acidity that pairs well with a dish from chef Oscar Antunes’ kitchen of caramelised figs, requeijão cheese, pickled cucumber, serrano ham and toasted almonds. That cheese, similar to ricotta, is delicious but with the sweet figs it really needs to be ‘cut’ and the rose does that perfectly helped by the salty ham.
Quinta De Lapa is in the Tejo region, one of the oldest wine producing regions in the country, where fine wines have been produced since Roman times. Specifically it’s based in the Bairro area north of the Tejo River where limestone and clay soils predominate.
As we try some Alvarinho 2020, the chef sends out grilled mackerel, roasted pepper and almond sauce, watercress and rocket salad. I am not usually a fan of mackerel, even though I used to catch them off Brighton pier as a kid, it’s a bit too fishy usually.
Here though I really like it and that ‘romesco’ sauce is sweet against the peppery salad. The wine, 100% Alvarinho, again pairs well, with a fruitiness that suits the fish.
Miguel shows a video of his winery and what a gorgeous place it is. The manor house dates from the 18th century and now offers eleven traditionally styled suites for relaxing wine stays and weddings.
Time for another dish and unusually the pairing is white wine with ox cheek. Specifically Braised ox cheek, mashed potatoes, tenderstem broccoli and a Port wine jus. The meat is incredibly tender, the result, as chef Oscar tells us, of hours of slow cooking, and I love the creamy mash that laps up the jus.
The wine is 100% Encruzado, a grape usually only found in the Dão region. Some people liken the wine to a Burgundy with its nutty, creamy, mineral tones.Obviously I was expecting a red, but this white wine with red meat was an excellent, if brave, pairing.
And finally Abade de Priscos, clementine sorbet and olive oil crumble. This is a type of crème caramel pudding created by the Abbot of Priscos, in the 19th century and usually contains bacon. Chef Oscar has instead used crispy pork crackling to provide the salty contrast and it’s an excellent idea as the crackling also delivers a crispy contrast.
Nana Cuvee 2021 rounds off the meal. Made from traditional Arinto, Fernão Pires grapes it has fine bubbles and is quite citric, which is what you need with a dessert that features a lot of eggs.
A brilliant meal in a lovely restaurant made extra special with the wines.
The wines are of course available to buy while stocks last, and prices are very reasonable for sparklers that, in my opinion, outshine many champagnes at twice the price. Come for the food, taste the wine, and leave with a few bottles!
Pedro’s extensive list of over 140, not on the hight street, Portuguese wines has recently expanded to feature an exciting new range from three of Tejo’s leading producers: Quinta da Lapa, Santos & Seixo and Casal da Coelheira.
Drop in to Pedro’s yourself to start exploring the region via the new tasting flight here of three Tejo wines:
- Nana Cuvée Reserva 2021 Méthode Traditionnelle – Quinta da Lapa
- Alvarinho Reserva 2020 – Quinta da Lapa
- Casa da Coelheira Reserva 2024, Chardonnay/Arinto
Pedro’s
Unit 128 Druid Street SE1 2HH London