The delicious paradox of a ‘Hindoostani Coffee House’ by the presciently named Dean Mohomed would have intrigued liberal thinkers and epicurean romantics of 1809 – the year that England’s first Indian restaurant appeared. Although Dean was declared bankrupt a few years later his legend lives on, namely as a historical snippet on the menu at Indian restaurant Rooburoo where this fusion of English and Indian is evident some 200 years later.

It is undeniably lovely inside; the rich colours, the way the mirrored walls reflect back on each other and the small stage at the centre is wreathed in clouds of dry ice Costumed theatricals and grotesques amble about and I think I spot my dear friend Giles among their number, but it turns out to actually be the Bearded Lady.

Trishna is a new breed ‘Indian’ with stylish little copper lampshades that hang intimately over each table, bare brick walls painted a fashionable grey and even some of the original wood panelling left to add a bit of tone. So it’s somewhere to fine dine, not a spot to indulge in a post-pub frenzy. That the food hasn’t the coarse kick associated with more traditional British-Indian restaurants is to be applauded; it’s time for the food to come out from under the spice.