The room, as many have already rather sniffily remarked, is a bit odd. It’s reminiscent of attempts to recreate a Georgian sitting room in a Barrett’s home. Of course the fireplaces here are the real thing, not made of plastic, and yet the impression lingers. It’s not unpleasant, far from it, but it does strike a slightly wrong note. Thankfully the food is good enough to distract you from the décor.
Yorkshire-born chef Rob Wilkinson has set up his restaurant Juniper in Highbury to please his Arsenal-loving wife. Having worked through a clutch of Manchester restaurants before a stint at Boisdale Bishopsgate, Wilkinson now heads Juniper’s kitchen while his father-in-law does the accounts – a true family-run restaurant.
Made in Camden sits neatly between west London me and several north London friends and I will be steering them swiftly into it. A very short walk from Chalk Farm tube station, it’s the new bar and dining room at The Roundhouse. No, it doesn’t have that sterile, safe, tacked-on-to-something-corporate feel so typical of in-theatre restaurants and bars.
The Basement is one of those places where you want to hover in the kitchen and taste everything that hits the pass. As you clock every dish heading for nearby tables it is easy to dither and even harder not to trawl the other tables asking for a forkful as it all looks so good.
Steak dining is easy eating, undemanding and satisfying and what first lured suburban Britain out of its 70’s sitting rooms and into restaurants in the first place. Now anointed by the Internet it clearly meets a new metro-urban need and Hawksmoor have their finger firmly on the pulse, successfully mainlining quality meat to the multitude.
There’s a bit of a dearth of good pubs around Highbury & Islington train station in London. You can take your pick from a jiggy but rammed theatre pub, a brawly boozer full of reddened baldheads or a freezing warehouse bar. Tempted? But if you poke behind the side streets, there’s a decent gastropub and a bit of a secret.
Bincho Yakitori on Old Compton Street is a modern Japanese restaurant specialising in Yakitori, surprisingly enough. The concept at Bincho Yakitori is simple; put it on a stick, grill it, sauce it.
It was, I think, the eminent sage and philosopher Russ Abbott who first put forward the suggestion that we all love a party with a happy atmosphere. As so often in his glittering philosophical career, he hit the nail bang on the head.
Just a short walk up Baker Street from Portman Square, Royal China is little more than a stone’s throw from Selfridges in Oxford Street. We enjoyed our meal there immensely. I would urge any lover of Chinese food to go there.
A small side salad arrives first to whet the appetite, made with fresh vegetables, topped with homemade coleslaw and crunchy croutons. It’s really good, crunchy and fresh, but then the monster combos arrive. Each plate contains two giant spare ribs, a sizeable portion of pulled pork.
