The entrance to Drift is around the side of the Heron Tower, but it’s worth going into the main reception to ‘ask directions’ just to stare in awe at the fish tank. In fact it’s not so much a tank as Europe’s largest privately owned aquarium. It’s so massive you expect a heavily tied up James Bond to suddenly drop into it, and then a shark to appear looking peckish.

Hamilton’s culinary philosophy is driven by a desire to please using organic, fair trade and local suppliers and their promise of offering ‘good, honest dishes made with quality ingredients where the person cooking them loves food and doesn’t take themselves too seriously” is being delivered in spades.

‘What’s the point of sitting inside at a restaurant whose USP is the view of Tower Bridge?” I whisper, menacingly, to a quivering S at Cantina del Ponte. S, who arrived at the Italian restaurant ten minutes before me, has happily plonked herself inside on a summer’s night when I wanted to sit on its lavender and olive-planted terrace.

Dedicated carnivore Marcus ‘the buffet slayer’ takes on the challenge of Rodizio Rico, a Brazilian restaurant where hunks of barbequed meat are heaped onto your plate till you can take no more- ‘an all you can eat meatfest’.

Now people say I am a burger denier but it’s really not true, I just don’t make a fetish of them that’s all. Nothing wrong with a decent burger for lunch and it fills a hole just as it’s designed to. Bistro du Vin’s burger could fill several holes; by my handy pocket theodolite it seems to stand six inches tall

It’s as well that Haymarket is lined with restaurants on both sides. And what a lot of restaurants there are. Well-known chains, all catering to the Croydon crowd come up West for the night. I can slander Croydon like this because I was born and lived there until I was 16, so I know of what I slag.

Opened recently SOCIeTY bar/restaurant has sharp contemporary decor, which they refer to it as ‘industrial elegance’. Although a little ‘off the beaten track’, it’s but a couple of minutes walk from Blackfriars station and City Thameslink. With great food and good atmosphere, this is absolutely a society that I’d be happy to drop into from time to time.

You don’t need a fast car to dine at The Three Oaks – but the chances are you’ll spot one there. Joanna Biddolph wished she’d taken her ancient Rover to the car wash before setting off for this posh part of near-London where good value, quality, generous portions and lashings of jus are always on the menu.

Joe’s sounds like a cheap cafe but with its glam interior, complete with glossy style mags to read if a table isn’t free, it’s anything but. Outside I see a Lamborghini, which has probably never ever left Zone 2, attempting to parallel park. It takes him ten attempts while taxis hoot at him derisively.

A very good restaurant should always make you feel comfortable no matter what. In its dining room, Quaglino’s manages it with aplomb