There’s a magic moment as the First Great Western train leaves Exeter when you finally know that you’ve quit London. Suddenly the monotonous banks of earth and fields of green give way onto what seems like an endless expanse of water. The wet sand is reflecting a late September sun and small boats lean drunkenly in all directions, patiently waiting the return of the tide to float them back to sober and dignified bobbing.

Jackie Lee visits L’Atelier des Chefs to learn a little more about EBLEX’s quality standard and beef and lamb butchery and almost bites off a little more than she can chew…

There were some delicious starters, however, at Eight over Eight in Chelsea. Apparently this place is a hit with the yummy mummies who (*delight*) have no idea the salads they wolf can contain fatty lashings of delicious palm sugar – v. common in south-east Asian foods – not that they care, what with debating the next buggy brand to adopt.

Caroline Sargent reviews a new range of ready meals from David Oliver and finds them more than fine. She samples their Guinea Fowl and Lentils, a classic Venison Stew, and Rabbit with Flagolet Beans. Her boyfriends gets to try the hearty Beef and Dorset Ale Stew.